SteveD's LR3 Manta MP8

Started my LR3 build after giving my MPCNC to my nephew when I moved cross country. Standard 4x8 build. Going to try and run with the Manta board and Klipper.

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I’m gunna need a bigger box. Down loaded Fusion 360 and Ryan’s Box model and Mixed this.

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Just make sure you have enough space between struts, to hang the case. The board/case is so big that that might not be fit.

Good Call! Downloaded the strut file and checked the measurements. I have .5 mm to spare, well within mallet adjustment specs. I will have to notch the lid to clear the head of the strut bolt on one side. The back hanger is split on the box so it will fit on the temporary struts also. The top of the box is going to hold the SmatiPi Touch 2 Case (because I have some).The Manata has a CM4 on the board so I won’t need to put a Pi in the screen case.

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@steved

Regarding this point, check out the “split” hanger on my control boxes that have it. Here’s a link to an example:
https://www.printables.com/model/277219-lowrider-3-cnc-control-box-case-for-btt-skr-14-tur

The hanger has a couple of key aspects. 1) It is shorter than the control box length, yet still prints without supports. 2) The split hanger means it can serve both while using the temp strut things and after the actual struts are in place.

Note: The latter feature above is not my invention. I got inspiration for it from the hanging bracket work of Dan @SupraGuy.

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Thanks for the link, my fusion skills are weak but I’ll take a shot at # 1. #2 is in the design. I do like the fans in your designs, might have to have a go at those too.

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I’ve been doing the JST / Molex swap with my boards. The BigTreeTech Manata board I’m working with now just wasn’t having it. I’m using the TMC 5160 drivers on the SPI bus. The SPI bus may be more sensitive to noise caused by imperfect connections. I don’t feel like desoldering the JST’s and soldering on the Molex. Of course the four sets of crimpers in I have won’t do a proper job on the Micro JST pins, so a pair of Iwis SN-01BM are on the way.

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Hello all, I’ve just crawled out of the “I think I need a new router rabbit hole” (I.E. 5 months without posting). The router is now a racked Homelab with a 10gbit switch and two servers. The box with a thousand feet of cat6e is empty so I must be done. Back to the LR3! (as long as I don’t see a squirrel).

Does anyone have the Z touch plate implemented in Klipper? I’ve googled around and looked through printer.cfg files and didn’t see anything.

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It can be treated as a normally open microswitch. You can use it as a min endstop to set Z=0 to the top of the touch plate. You can probably set the position of the endstop to Z=0.5mm.

Or you could use it as a probe. But I am not sure what features you will need to set up.

Thanks, started banging away at it. I’m using the probe call, works pretty well. Have to wait until I get my Y axis connected to turn it into a tool change macro.

[probe]
“# Motor 6 stop pin PC2, ^ pull resistor, ! normally open”
pin: ^!PC2
z_offset: 0.5

[gcode_macro Probe_Z]
description: Use V1*Engineering touch plate to set material top to Z=0.0
gcode:
probe ; Probe down to touch plate
G92 Z0.5 ; Set new Z position to thickness of touch plate

Anyone get the license number on that truck?

Yes, I’m going to try and bootstrap a cutting table.
CNC-cut table for LowRider v3

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That’s cool about the table. What material are you going to cut your torsion box ribs and spare out of?

(That looks like a sheet of HDPE you have there. Hopefully you’re not planning to use that for the torsion box. It is too flexible and would bend too much.)

Are those pics of your workspace? I’m a tad bit envious of how much open space you have! I don’t even have room to turn around.

HDPE was for the struts. Torsion box is going to be cut from the 3/4 plywood in the background. All it took to get more room was moving 900 miles away. Very little survived the great purge of 2021. :smile:

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Thanks for posting pics, and please keep them coming!

I am very interested in your bootstrapping as I plan to do the same.
any tips and tricks learned?

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One thing I learned was then it says “lay some long strips beside the topmost MDF sheet (for to serve as riding plates for the LR3 to ride on).” It’s not so much for the Lr3 to ride on as it is to extend the Y direction to be able to cut a full 4x8 sheet. As you can see in the picture I thought it rides just fine on the MFD what do I need strips for. :man_facepalming:
You can also see, I started to put 2’x4’ pieces of MDF at the end to lengthen the Y axis.

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I also have these, and something in my marsupial brain wants to temp BondO them to the floor and be done.

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and a little candy.

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Remember, “Slow work takes time”.

1: Install CNC hammock


2: Cut Spars and struts

3:Assemble Spars and struts

4:Glue and screw bottom of table.

5: Lie in hammock and watch glue dry.

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