Exactly. I did not expect to sell out, or sell so much that launching louder makes any sense. I just got boards back in today with more coming behind these. T8’s gone, more on the way…etc. Normally it is a nice slow ramp, that was 135 LR4 related orders the first day…
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…now he just mails out Polymaker from the Post Office.
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WOW! I knew it was up there but didnt realize it was that many. thats AWESOME!!! Congratulations sir!
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We are a bit past 50 hardware kits and almost 100 upgrade kits. It all slowed down when I ran out of Jackpots. Jackpots are here, nearly out of T8’s, no tracking number on them yet.
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Can’t you just go to the hardware store? 
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Thoughts on optimal way to install final Strut plates?
Noticed https://docs.v1e.com/lowrider/#disassembly is pending details.
Personally tried the following, but guessing there’s better way(s)…
- Slide Core to Min side (left)
- Propped up Max side of Beam with Duct Tape and 3M Post-It pads
- Fully unscrew X Belt tensioner.
- Remove XZ-YZ Max assembly
- Remove Max brace
- Slide Core off right end of Beam
- Mount and fasten Front and Bottom Struts to Beam
- Slice Core back on
- Reattach Max Brace checking M5 Nylock Nut for X Belt Tensioner is still in the Max brace
- Reattach XZ-YZ Max assembly
- Reattach X Belt Tensioner
100x clip vaguely following the above… https://zoomtube.com/@azab2c/make/v1e-lr4?v=8_0&t=25_23_43&r=100
Nah, that sounds like too much work. 
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Oh, your earlier temporary “decorative” Strut (since the 3mm wall thick pipes are doing all the heavy lifting) doesn’t have wings, so that wingless straight strut can slide out with the Core still on the Beam even, just needed to remove one XZ-YZ side?
Yeah, and the winged new one can just slide in. Have to put it in at an angle. I didn’t remove any side… I really just undid the screws.
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To specify: You can’t directly push the new strut with the wings behind the core, but you can push it behind it at an angle, then snap it into place from behind (I know, phrasing…).
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I am pretty sure you do not need to take it apart to get the strut plates in unless you have a less than 150mm brace spacing, even then you might be able to get it in.
If you change this to remove XZ-YZ Min side then there is no reason to remove a brace. It will slide right off on the min side
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I had to take my final beta apart to get them in. If we didn’t have the notches then it wouldn’t be a problem. But with the strut being taller it wouldn’t slide behind the core. I tried REAL hard and put some crappy marks on the struts and still had to move the core out of the way more.
Can we paint / powder coat / add thickness to the struts or aluminum XZ plates?
I thought I read somewhere Ryan said not to do that.
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You get to a point where you dont have enough clearance on the core from the Panhead M5 screws.
When I did the back lighting of the aluminum on my LR3 I had to go to countersunk screws to get the needed clearance. I would say if you want to powder coat and all it might be better to go with 3/16" aluminum but I really have a hard time thinking powder coating will add enough thickness to matter on 1/4"
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T8’s??
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Lead screws
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I took of YZ MIN and slid the strut in from that side without much grief.
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As I said: at an angle.
I tried every angle I could. They wouldn’t go lol