Can anyone tell me how to get the nut in?
sigh at least I caught it early. Hopefully its not a predictor for the future. 
Can anyone tell me how to get the nut in?
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Numerous problems with print quality on my printer, but at least the color scheme is pretty rad 
Rest assured that any similarity with some German woodworking tools brand is purely intentional 
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On LR4, all the nut capture slots are meant to install the nut after the part is finished with printing.
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Ha! Love my Domino.
Not sure how they’re regarded in your area. But around here you’d only be allowed to use the most expensive endmills in that machine, or it might void your warranty!
But it would be cool to use a little systainer for the control box.
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Looks more like filament issues and maybe some problems with the nozzle. those bumps in the layers and on the top are most likely from moist filament or just cheap filament with trapped air bubbles or inconsistent diameter.
@azab2c am I able to get your cura settinggs off you?
If using cura, double check the bridge overhangs in the core, YZ plates, and lower dust shoe Before printing them. Make sure the overhang bridges are across the walls not with them or you will have problems.
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Sure thing, I will share Ender 3 Max and V1E MP3DP v4 profiles that worked for me on GitHub later tonight
EDIT:
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What a great idea 
Thanks… I have ender and elegoo printers. 
I wonder if I can use a different/better slicer. Cura is the elegoo standard
Orca has worked great for several of us!
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I use orcaslicer for my elegoo neptune 4, fully supported and excellent results. Says about 10 hours for the core at . 28, coming along nicely. Elegoo PLA Pro because apparently “offers superior rigidity and stiffness than PLA.” upgrading my LR3, will make a thread when done.
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Nice, are you using the standard .4 or changed out to the .6 nozzle
Stock .4.
I ended up purchasing the calilantern and ran the test on my P1S. My results are below and it seems my ZX and ZY are not the best which I can’t correct and the XY, which I can correct, is pretty good. I think i’ll try reprinting and adjust the scaling of the X and Y to see if improvements to the size make any difference to the overall score.
Were there any guidelines yet on what scores are good vs. bad? I tried digging back through this thread but there’s a lot of posts.
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My first run got 450 or so. After applying the fix, score was 855. Definitely an improvement! I have crappy calipers, so likely reached the limit of my measuring tools. I have the Klipper firmware (elegoo neptune 4)
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I started printing the parts for the LR4 and have a Primo nearly completed. Should I just scrap the Primo build and focus on the LR4, is there any advantage to completing and having both?
I built a primo originally, and then “converted” it to a LR3. I personally have found the LR3 to be much more enjoyable to use overall, but that’s just my 2 cents. If your primo is very close to done, then you could just get it up and running to get a feel for your general workflow of CAM while your print out LR4 parts.
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