This looks awesome, great job! You produced great results faster than anybody else here, I think.
The little gaps where you can see the glue might be from making it a little too deep or are inaccuracies with the CNC. My first large inlay had major problems because my CNC wasnāt square. Since the inlay is mirrored, 0.25mm out of square ends up being 0.5mm in the end. Jamie had some kind of rotating idea but I never understood that. Itās somewhere in an old thread.
I used to plane it down with the CNC, I did it with the bandsaw the last time, then sanded it with my homemade drum sander. With the bandsaw wasnāt unproblematic either, but less hassle than programming a clearing toolpath. I am going to build a jig where I can clamp round objects to put through bandsaw and drum sander some day.
Inconsistent Z-height. The 1/8" bit I used to hog out the majority of the wood cut visibly deeper than the 30 V bit.
Fuzzies - The feeds and speeds are wrong on that V-bit (itās new.). I need to tune that in a bit. (I had to scrape the fuzzies, and I did chip some of the thinnest areas.) Also think I need a finishing pass strategy.
Itās also funny - Iām starting to think a little more like someone operating a CNC. But for small test projects I often overlook the details. So for these tests, I did 1 coaster at a time, and 1 inlay at a time. Then clamp overnight, then plane, etc.
I enjoyed it enough (and these would make great stocking stuffers with a variety of graphics) that I think Iāll make a fixture so that I can plane the materials to uniform thickness, then carve both the items and the inlays at the same time with the same z-height probe. Iāll try to send pictures if I get the fixture made this weekend (mainly for suggestions from the experts .
Question: When I think about a V-bit, the speed the flute engages the wood would be max at the top of the V (never used), and lowest at the tip (always used). Do I need to spin a V-bit faster to compensate? Or are there other tricks for a less fuzzy result from a V-bit?
Very neat, really interested in how that turns out. Sleight height differences really are not helpful. I only started to stop eyeballing stuff with theses coasters, because I was mad that it didnāt work too well.
I never really thought about it, but I just run the V-bit by earā¦ A little slower than the other endmills. I can adjust on the fly digitally though.
Phew, it really depends. For the coasters it wouldnāt matter since you are setting a max depth anyway, for things like fonts I usually use my 60Ā° over my 30Ā° or 10.2Ā° because then it is just a lot quicker because it doesnāt cut as deep but the full width in one go.
For the tiny birds I used the 10.2Ā° with the round nose, you can just force them together and those 0.25mm round at the tip can safely be ignored.
Iāll probably try to just do some simple shallow shapes first before I do anything too complicated, but I have some more complicated Christmas gifts that I need to make coming upā¦
You produced great results faster than anybody else here, I think. 
Itās somewhere in an old thread.
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