So let me get this straight… First you print it, then cut the insides back out? 
I know, it can adjust for your elephant feet issues automatically.
My first though too was, why? But maybe the outside finish is really important?
Eventually, I came around to appreciating that it is pretty neat to have the tool changers and stuff. But I think there needs to be one more good idea to make this really useful.
That would be awesome for big nozzles. I had this idea years ago but didn’t have the skills to make it happen software wise.
In combination with a big nozzle, you could get both relatively high print speed and great surface finish.
That would also be awesome for creating 2.5D shapes out of plastic with CNC like quality results, without needing the CNC skills. Also would be useful to get some really accurate reference points or good sliding surfaces, which sometimes are useful for complex assemblies. Last but not least: virtually unlimited milling height, so you could do extremely high stuff without needing an extremely long milling bit! Many possible applications.
Only issue I thought of was that it wouldn’t work well with overhangs since the broach couldn’t reach under them. It’s a shame because those are usually the spots where we get the ugliest results, so that’s where milling the surface would be most needed.
Think printing in engineering plastics, peek, or cf filled peek. You can over build a bearing hole, then mill it to fit.
I see a lot of ruined print beds in folk’s futures…
Dang $75 for the blank tool mount kit seems a bit high, but it’s doable. I suppose I should buy at least one official one for checking compatibility.
There’s also Jubilee that’s compatible with E3D tools so something there could probably be stolen for the tool changer side.
I had chosen to ignore the E3D system since it seemed too small/weak for holding routers, but I need to rethink if perhaps it could be incorporated. Maybe two cleats, only one of which is used for small/light E3D-compatible tools, and both cleats are used for heavier routers…
Okay I’m going to redo my tool changer. The printed cleat in my current design kept breaking and I am not sure beefing up the plastic is really the right solution. And if I’m switching to a metal cleat, then I don’t see a reason not to be E3D compatible. And now also Jubilee.
Goals for the update:
- E3D compatible, including:
- Metal rod with metal cross-pin as locking element
- Three 8mm ball-in-groove kinematic mount
- Two cleats (as before) for stronger holding and strength against tilting
- Overconstrained (as before) when both cleats are used, which IMO is not the end of the world
- Controlled tension instead of “whatever the deflection of the plastic provides”
- Retain use of high-torque servo, avoiding complex stepper arrangements
- Minimize BOM of non-printed parts, in particular avoiding a large number of small metal parts
Official E3D blank tool plate arrived and my design based off the drawings looks like it was good.
Sneak peek:
Still working on the rest. Should have it out before too long.
Thanks @barry99705 for the inspiration/motivation.