Repeat V2?

The down side to MDF sides is they move with weather and can not easily be adjusted.

I just tuned my last printer to 0.05mm in any direction I test. I just could not do that with a wooden one. I would get them close but summer vs winter messed things up.

If we wanted a wood or plastic frame, it would need to be designed with some adjustments. And even then I ended up with specialty hardware to make it work well. The extrusion is expensive and you all know I hate it, but it is more stable and infinitely adjustable.

Screws can be ordered in bulk for a few cents each, bolt depot, but the nuts are a bit more. You can use your CNC to cut the corner brackets instead of buying them for $2-3 each. The slide in nuts are the only real hitch I can see.

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Iā€™m about to power up my board and test all of the motion. Moving things with my hands seems to be working nicely.

However, Iā€™m not sure of a couple of things with this SKR Pro:

  1. Do I need to move any jumpers around from the way they were shipped?
  2. Do I need to cut off (or bend) a pin on the stepper driver?

I feel like there is an outside chance I could be running test prints this weekend.

Yes SKR Pro - V1 Engineering Documentation, jumps and pin bending as shown here.

The steppers get plugged in like I stated above. A B Z1 skip E Z2 Z3

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Maybe?

Maybe conduit and 3d printed joints instead of extrusion and T-nuts?

I know a guy who made a table/cart thing that way

For a 3d printer the small conduit should be fine.

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Curious to see what creative material and labor saving Mods people come up with. Maybe a contest? Winner gets bragging rights for being the cheapest expletive, something I always aspire for.

Recent posts got me looking at printing corners/braces and using slot router bits to DIY extrusion alternatives out of ply/mdf, or Corian offcuts.

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What does a repeat average right now? (This is meant to be funny). Maybe buy 3 of the 79 dollar laser etchers for parts, lol

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Damn ryan, how did you heart that so fast

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HAHAHA I was reading it and yours popped in.

2020 T-slot Aluminum Extrusion Combo Kit 10m Extrusion Angle Brackets Screw Nut - ZYLtech Engineering, LLC This set gave me tons of extra parts.

I do not like the twist in t nuts I do prefer the slide in. Pain in the butt if you forget one but in the end it makes adjustments suuuuuper easy. Those printed ones actually look pretty good.

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The CAD is there, lets see what can be done. I have 4 more to build!!!

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I have had a few choice words with the twist in ones. But my gridbot is made completely with them. They work fine, until they donā€™t twist enough.

That reminds me if the piper!

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Ahhhhh you guys suck. Now I am wondering if I could make this cheaperā€¦bottom of my list right now but I wonder how much it would save.

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Ugh. Made the mistake of buying cheap stepper motor cables from Amazon. And they are all wired in a strange way, so I need to rewire them all.

Right now, I have the L / R steppers functioning, but moving X in Pronterface actually moves in the Y direction, and vice-versa. I assume that means that I need to reverse the direction of the steppers?

Looks like Piper 2 already exists as a Core XY, so not really any point to doing that again since it has already been done.

And anyway the extrusion is not that expensive. Itā€™s the linear rails that really rack up the cost.

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X motion comes from the steppers moving in the same direction, and Y motion comes from them moving opposite. To get there from what you are seeing, one of the motors needs to be reversed.

Once you do that, the results will be one of 2 things: Either the motion will be correct, or it will be reversed (X+ goes left, Y+ moves toward you.) If itā€™s correct, congratulations, youā€™re done. If not, then you need to reverse both motors from there (put the one motor back, and reverse the other one.)

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HAHAHA yeah that part is guess and check for sure.

When facing it the left stepper is X and the right one is Y. From there you might have to flip the plugs to get it right. Remember to power down when you do.

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I got it all working except for the BLTouch. I was really hoping to get it printing this weekend. Iā€™m so close.

Iā€™m headed out of town for work for 3 days, and Iā€™m not going to be able to think about anything other than this for the next three days.

I am getting close to finishing my build as well. I did not have enough smooth idlers so I am waiting for a few of those to show up so I can complete my Z-Axes. After that, its just wiring left. Fun. Hopefully I can make it neat and tiddy.

So far, the most annoying thing about this build are the slide-in v-slot nuts. You can put them in no problem, but then they can spin inside the slot and become horizontal to where they can just pull right out. Is this a problem for anyone else? I canā€™t tell you how many times I have attached a part with a few nuts and find that one of them had turned sideways and now I have to take it apart and redo it. The worst part with this was the linear rails. Glad that part is over.

But so far it is looking good and I canā€™t wait to have it wired and running.

When I put rails on my ender5 I used some of these: 100-Pack 2020 2040 2060 Roll in Spring Loaded T Nut m3 for 20x20 20 Series Aluminum Extrusions 6mm Slot Aluminum Profile Accessories (M3) Amazon.com

They are better in that they donā€™t twist around like the more traditional ones. But they are not as easy to get into the slot if something is blocking the end. But once you get them in place, you can back the bolt out a bit, move the thing, and tighten it without having to worry about the thing spinning too freely in the slot.

It definitely is for me.

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:100: give the randomly rotating T nuts to someone you hate.

Love the spring ball versions referenced by @kgleason, can insert/remove any time.

Consider chunkier slide in only nuts even/as-well, if you know how many are needed upfront during initial assembly https://www.amazon.com/KOOTANS-Thread-Aluminum-Extrusions-Profiles/dp/B07PNV8SWZ

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