Nothing yet other than the CAD. It is kinda hard because everyone makes them different, sizes, probes, extruders, beds.
The only think I can think of so far is labeling what Z stepper is what, and what port they plug into on any board.
Let me know what seems unclear and I will start a outline.
This would be immensely helpful. I figured I’d just look at the Marlin configs on Githiub to figure it out.
Okay here are my notes on this until I get a page going along further.
Z1 to Z port
Z2 to E1 port
Z3 to E2 port
Any tips for getting the belts through the Z blocks?
If your prints are super tight cut the ends at a long tapered point that should let you get it through. If your prints are really bad see if you can scrape out the tunnel but from both sides. There is also a trick of using a flat head screwdriver to push it through one notch at a time. In the end though it is a bad print. The belt should be snug but still slide through.
Did you print them on their sides so that tunnel is two pillars not a large overhang?
If it is really bad you might want to do a little slicer tuning to get your retracts and cooling in line.
Looks like I have 2 that were printed upright – with the bolt hole vertical. The other 4 appear to be printed on their sides.
None of them are brilliant quality prints, but also not the worse looking things I’ve ever printed.
I did try using the flat end of a small screwdriver, but no luck with that. I did decide to stop trying last night when I almost impaled my left hand with the screwdriver.
It does feel like my printed right now are shrinking more than they used to – could be because the temperature has cooled off some. I’m gonna try to print a new one at a slower speed. If that doesn’t work, maybe I’ll scale it by 5% or so.
This little part could use a rework for sure.
Just scale as little as possible to keep the tight fit for the locking part. You can always make it work without it but nice to have if you can.
I figured if I made it too loose, I could probably loop around and zip tie the ends down
A simple option is to put a piece of filament into the loop and that prevents it from pulling through.
In looking at your lists I realized I had quite a bit already on hand, and I went ahead and ordered (slow boat) some remaining items. I am sure I will find some odds and ends I still need, but I am cautiously optimistic I will have nearly everything when the orders come in. I am planning for approx 310x310 x either 400 or 450 or such.
I’ve ordered a BIGTREETECH SKR PRO V1.2, with 6 TMC 2209’s, and I already have a Raspberry PI, so I think I am going to try to run Klipper — and see if I like it. It would be my first experience with Klipper.
I have most everything here already, just need to order the extrusion.
I’ve been extremely busy at work, that I don’t think I will be able to do anything until after Thanksgiving.
I have an extra SKR Pro on hand, But I do want to try the Manta M8P with CB1, also I ordered BTT-EBB 42 Can Bus and the U2C V2.1. Let’s see how that go…
I was able to free up a Raspberry Pi 4, that was controlling my CR10S-pro by replacing it with BTT Pi4B adapter and CB1, I will do the same for the Repeat V1.
BTW,
Klipper is great, very ease to setup and use.
Sounds great.
This will be first time trying Klipper. I’ve read good things.
105% seemed to do it.
If all goes well, I’ll have all the belts in place this coming weekend. I’m also going to work on cutting my bed support. I exported the DXF from Fusion, but it I’m not entirely clear on how everything lines up. Maybe it will be when I get it cut out.
I’m around if you get stuck.
I’m working through printing parts at the moment. Does the repeat model in fusion allow for exporting frame as mdf instead of rails? Since i have access to cnc and free MDF it makes more sense to go that route.
It could work, all but one part.
I have not added the MDF like the previous version but it is all there if you wanted to make your own DXF’s. The belt tops and AB steppers would need slots.
I need to do this too. Probably $125 for the extrusion and all the screws/nuts, then I’d want to cut out some brackets. Even if i use an entire sheet of mdf im better off in the pocket.
I’m in the same boat. It’s not so much the extrusion itself that’s so pricey, its the fittings and T nuts that drive the project price skyward.
I need to cut down my MGN12 rails, the ones I have are 300mm…