I was very happy when I discovered a town close by has a Menards next door to a Harbor Freight. It also happens to be across the street from the best authentic Chineese food we have around here.
I’ve been doing a lot of 3d printing lately, which has me itching for a new printer again. Do we have any type of doc file created for a ‘how to build’ one of these guys yet? Even if it’s a beta document or something that I can be pointed to to wrap my head around the process without having to read all the build threads?
Strain relief for the bed wires…but I think Dan suggested it, I also ran all three of my Z steppers through that this time, and it was great. I had very little wire routing to do.
Yeah, I used those holes for zip ties to route wires. This time, since the Z motors are on the bed, I ran all of my motor wires to the bottom side, and the bed wires to the top.
Man…all of y’all with your clean pretty wiring talk. Making me feel bad for how crappy and all over the place mine is LOL. But keep talking about it. Will be nice having all the tips and tricks when I do go to do it LOL
That’s a negative. My dad until he retired worked installing electronics in AT&T offices. Mostly power wiring. They had to lace everything and he would complain about it constantly. I saw a lot of it and while it looks great I want no part of actually doing it LOL.
Ugh. My boss figures that the server room should be like that, forgetting that the company didn’t want to actually install all of the switch gear that it would take to allow all of the network ports in all of the offices to be connected simultaneously, which of course means regularly moving network cables from one port to another one. No matter how neatly you wire it up on the first place (and I’ll be the first to say it wasn’t that neat,) it looks like a tangled mess PDQ.
Would extrusion across the top front help, hinder or make no different to performance? e.g. the blue markup in pic below.
Trying to figure out if/how to add front extrusion as I make an enclosure. Wondering if front top X extrusion was intentionally omitted to avoid over constraining, and potentially putting force/resistance on the rails if the frame isn’t precisely cut an assembled square.
If front top X extrusion negatively impacts performance, then I’ll figure some way to enclose that’s flexible/less-constraining, and doesn’t resonate much, some how…
You’d have to figure out how to clear the two belt tighteners.
I have not seen a need for a top extrusion on my printer. I think it’s why the bottom one is raised up is to help center the top and bottom of the side plates.
My plan is to run a top extrusion in my lid, but it will be higher up so that it’s easier to see the extruder. I also don’t want to have to reach over/around a top bar when working on the extruder.
My front plate goes to the top, and therefore adds some constraint, but not all the way across. I like having that top front part open so that I can see and reach into the printer.
The tensioners and the print fan are in the way, for exactly where you drew it but you could put one higher.
I don’t think there is any need for it. There is no belt tension between the parts and the frame should be plenty rigid. The only thing that might come into play is accelerations. It would be cool to print a ringing test at the rear of the bed vs the front and see if there is any difference.
My gut wants a bar there as well but it is really nice not to have anything in the way.
Cheers for the input, agree with you guys that open front is convenient. Will try assembling front door, and separate top lid without front top X extrusion/bar.
Doing some tests to see whether helps or hinders perf would be nice, maybe built in adjuster to help tune and make up for my inability to make accurate extrusion cuts. Am not doing this anytime soon.
