so, ive gotten all of my “B” color parts printed except for the core and all of which had printed flawlessly…except for the Core, i seem to be having trouble printing this part without the bottom warping.
im printing with the Prusa i3 MK3S and current settings 225@nozzle (PLA), 85@Bed for better adhesion due to the cold temps in the garage where my printer is setup.
ive tried printing this a couple of times on a smooth bed with Overture 1.75mm filament and stopped as soon as i saw the warping occur, just can’t seem to figure out what is causing this. i realize its a large part and its taking the nozzle a while to move across the plate even at 100%.
looking for advice or recommendations please.
Also, if anyone is in SoCal, can you recommend a place for SS polished Tubing for the Primo-J 25.4mm build?
i have no draft, just temps dropping around 50-55deg. i ran the file just how it is as it looks like it came from a Prusa but if not all other parts printed without issue at same settings.
Have not tried Brim as im still very much new to 3D printing, im using 70% infill with no split, no perimeters, just running everything the file was set at with the exception of the higher nozzle and bed temps.
Not on the core, but other parts I started to get some warping. I had my PLA at 205, I tried backing it off to 185 and had less warping. My thinking was that there was less thermal change going on.
The core I did print at 205 but I printed in the summer and the room was cooking hot so I didn’t experience any warping.
When I was printing the SKR PRO Case I got a lot of warping till I added a 5m skirt and backed the PLA temp off - still printed first layer hot though.
I had to slow my print speed down for the fastest moves (infill) as my extruded started missing steps as it couldn’t get enough filament through the cooler head.
My friend was using a Prusa while printing my parts and found the same problem. He was using the Prusa slicer with an infill pattern that put about 20% more material down. He switched to another infill and both the PLA usage and the warping improved. I think the pattern he liked better was Gyroid(?).
EDIT: I just converted the f to c, and 50 is WAAAAY too cold! See the part about temperature below.
PLA on the Prusa should be a safe shot. If you still have warping, you should tune the z-height, and make sure the bed is properly cleaned (isopropanol is great). Are you using the smooth or the wrinkly one? The smooth is the right one for PLA.
Temperature is also important, I don’t know what cold is in southern california-terms, but when I print, I always try to keep the ambient tempereature at least above 20c. If that’s not possible, an enclosure should be used.
And just to be safe, even if the Prusa is well functioning, it’s always smart to use brim when printing huge parts, since they are more prone to living a life on their own during the print.
looks like temps are in check and Z height looks great still looking at the first test strip as i started printing the “A” parts. i use the smooth plate. im gonna try using a lower bed temp and research this Brim setup.
A brim is a good idea, if your part is separating at the bed. If it’s warping higher up, a brim won’t help.
The warping, i.e. layer separation, is due to thermal gradients: An area is taking longer to cool than another area, giving more time for the filament to contract, as the heat in the part is trying to even out the stresses due to the gradients. Sometimes, it’s not excess heat that’s the problem, but rather (comparatively) faster cooler in an area. Or, a combination of both.
As has been pointed out above, my guess is your low ambient temperature. This low temperature has required a higher bed temperature to encourage bonding, which adds to the problem. I would agree with lowering the bed temperature, but also adding a box around the part. PLA normally likes to be cooled quickly, but it must be done somewhat evenly. Whether you add a cardboard box around your printer (experiment with the top open or closed), or literally add a box part around the core (i.e. printing a solid wall, 2 perimeters thick, spaced maybe 10mm out from around the core), I’m thinking maintaining a warmer, more consistent ambient environment will do a lot towards success.
ill definitely playing the brim next. last part printed worked well at the higher nozzle temp (220)and regular bed temp (60). meanwhile, ill be building an enclosure for my printer.
Al, I have the same printer. are you using the smooth sheet? make sure it’s clean, wipe it down with 91% rubbing alcohol. bed temp seems high, 60-65c on my PLA prints here using overture / duramic / prusament. I’m printing mine from PETG on the textured sheet and it seems to be sticking thus far. If your room is cold, the mentions of a box or tote to trap heat might help too & can cover with a blanket for added insulation. but please keep a close eye on it, I’d hate to hear you had a fire or something else happen.
I use Prusament and overture PLA and clean after every print JIC, only got them to stick during these winter Temps by increasing bed heat though.I’m sure this will all go away once I finish an enclosure