Sanding and extra tightening help pretty well, wiggeling is much less, just a little more.
My bores are so tight, I won’t get your suggestion assembled.
So you have put the clamps on more than twice and still never bothered to try my suggestion?
You know what works better than moving one bearing closer, moving two.
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I couldn’t understand how this suggestion should help, so I tried the other solution first.
According to my understanding, tightening the clamp before mounting will move the horizontal bearing away from the tube, because the wings come closer together and with a fix length of the wing the other end will move away.
Additionaly I had very tight bores, so I wasn’t very confident to bring it together.
Well so, I wanted to try it now, even when I have now much tighter bores due to overtightening.
Anyway, during disassembly I found something else now.
According to the fact that I have now much less wiggleroom due to sanding and overtightening, it helps when I turn the tube. As I had measured, I have 24,85mm to 25,05mm tubes, depending on angle of measurement, they are not perfectly round, but you also can’t expect this. So with turning the tube it will be good, at least I thought, then I moved it over the hole length…
In some spots there is wiggleroom and in some spots it gets harder to move.
Opposite.
Worth 30 seconds of your time to try. You come hear asking for help, the guy that designed it says “hey try this for free takes 30 seconds”.
4 days later, I am still answering your questions, investigating all your dimensional questions (finding no issues)…having you say the parts printer you bought them from is bad, having to have him stop production and print my test parts to verify.
We already told you the two times there were issues previous one was solved by rotating the non-round tube and the other was solved by the method I ask you to try since you said your tubes were round.
I am sorry but until you can try my solution I am out of time to help you. A lot of time has been spent by a lot of people and you still are doing it your way.
Within tolerances, should still work, the wonders of plastic is it can flex.
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I was on vacation for the whole weekend, and just had a few minutes on Sunday evening to try out something. I choose the best option of your suggestions which was “plan B” in my point of view in combination with your advise there should be a shiny surface on the standoffs and tightened more.
Maybe it was more work to move 2 bearings, but I was more confident it will help, and it did.
A turning of the tube before this job wasn’t helpful, I’ve noticed the absolutely resistance free turning of tubes in first assembly try.
And today, as I wanted to give your “plan A” a try, I noticed during disassembly, that turning of tube now has resistance. So it actually helped pretty well, the only remaining problem is now, that the tube roundness seems to be not stable over the length (1200x880mm build up).
I always was sure I will find a solution also by myself, but I also wanted to help other builders with my experiences, as this was a new release and I thought I have found an inconsistency.
I fixed problem now with this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4564508
I wish I would have done this right away, because I already sanded and overtightened the core, so I now have maybe a little to much tension. Never the less, this bracket should work fine. I know at least 3 people inkl. me, where this has helped.
The goal is to make it right for everyone. Since I can not source 25mm rails here I am relying on others to help me step through some troubleshooting. People should not need to get other parts, if something needs to be changed I need to change it. Unfortunately I can not just change it because one person says it need to be changed.
i had the same problem: Primo Core F is wiggling
I also could fix the wiggling with this modified file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4564508
And i also saw more people in german facebook who had the same problem.
Tell everyone with an issue for this to start a new thread. If you all are complaining in a youtuber’s facebook group there is no way for me to know about it.
If there is an issue moving one bearing is not the correct fix.
So far, AntiFetzen, is doing a wonderful job in testing and reporting. Should know what to do in the next day or two.
That is only one file and without the “special” clamp you lose 10-15mm of machine travel.
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I had the same problem, but it was only 0.3mm or so. I somehow solved it by tightening the bolts a lot. It still feels like the core is not completely fixed though.
Well the funky part is we are dealing with 0.55mm or less since that modded part is only 0.55 different. I just don’t understand how that is making it work or not. I will know more tomorrow, the 23.5mm parts are almost done printing and I should see this for myself.
If it works for me it is 100% a printer/slicer issue and I will have to make a test for it so we can figure it out. If it does not work for me I can adjust the models but still do not understand why one works and the others do not.
We already know there is a slicer setting that makes the belts sliders work or not and they have about 0.6mm clearance…pretty close to 0.55mm so that is why I am leaning so hard to that being the issue.
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Where is the belt slider settings? I want to check this myself 
again I want to reprint mine in a different color but don’t want to print with wrong settings again. I have more trouble keeping track of that kind of thing than cats.
We don’t know what it was, just that it exists.
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I read somewhere that the sliders were wrong in the Prusaslicer. I had no problems with them though. So if it was a problem with the slicer it would be random.
The issue was found, the core had wrong spacing for the gantry clamps. 25mm primo core clamp issues
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According to my analysis of the STL the clamps have the same offset, fitting to the core. You should update these as well.
yes everything is being updated
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Ryan @vicious1 mentioned in the PRIMO-thread that the modified clamps can be used (as several has reported) to counter the offset error(New MPCNC for 2020! - Primo -). I will go for this solution, since I’m all out of the fancy pantsy PLA I bought for the occation. Has anyone here attempted to make a modified Y clamp as well? Or is it possible to use the modified clamp for the Y-spot as well?
Edit: I see from the build doc that it seems like a regular clamp can be used, but then the truck wouldn’t clear. I guess this is the reason for loosing 15mm of workspace? Would the workspace be identical if a Y-clamp repair came?
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