@gpagnozzi I have done a lot with 3d printing, If you have a cr10 i assume your using a bullseye mod for cooling? Sometimes they cool too well and have a negative effect on layer lamination. Try turning your cooling down To 75% and see if that gets your layers to stick.
Hey Atom,
I also been 3D Printing for yearsā¦ FDM and SLA.
The setup in question (CR10S-Pro) is heavily modified (the only thing original on my CR10S-Pro is the chassis), and I donāt use bullseye mod for cooling for the same reason you mention it. I been using one of the remixes of This One
But I do not blame cooling for that particular problemā¦!!!
At that time my problem was the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotendā¦ it was fixed by raising the extrusion temperature.
GP
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Ahh yeah the all ss hotends donāt heat quit as well/evenly. I wish they made more titanium options.
To give you an Idea, Iām printing parts for a new coreXY printer using ZIRO Carbon Fiber PLA
@jeffeb3 is the one Iām telling my wife she should be mad at it!!! 
(His build here) and the creator of Gridbot @stewart for his awesome design!
Anywaysā¦the recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature is 200-230ā for that filamentā¦ my printer needs to be at 230 to 250 C to get a reliable print with that filament.
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Thats pretty awesome, I was thinking of building an xy to replace my E3 after I get my mpcnc up and running. Let me know how it works out for you.
Iāve honestly never taken one apart so I donāt know, but could you submerge the sensor in boiling water to calibrate?
You could, but 220C is a lot different. I read a warning to avoid using low temperatures to calibrate them. That was a long time ago though. I know sugar melts at 360F (180C). Thatās how I calibrated my oven. Not sure I want melted sugar on my hot end either though.
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Sweet. But probably attract flies or kids pretty quickly
Simple, remove the heat block, place it on a heat impervious surface, put a pice of brass on top of the heat block, put sugar on the brass plate. Heat till you get hard candy. Calibrated 
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Hard ball tacticsš
So my original MPCNC was esun PLA+ and then my burly and now the new Primo will be also. I have done every calibration that I can think of and just about exclusively print with the esun PLA+. The only issue I ran into was the dimensional accuracy but that seems to have been taken care of by calibration. After all I am using a heavily modified Anet A8 so I can only expect so much. I also had some pieces break from over tightening some bolts/screws. I will post some pictures in my build thread in awhile if anyone is interested. https://forum.v1e.com/t/slow-upgrade-525-to-primo/21719?u=h0m3r2000
My up coming primo is printed in esun PLA+. The esun version of pla+ has a PETG additive which causes it to string a little more than regular PLA but otherwise Iāve found it to be far more resilient than standard PLA (like really, surprisingly stronger). It also prefers a slightly higher print temp - Iāve printed it up to 230 with no problems at all. My current burly build is printed mostly from PETG and while I donāt have any problems with the quality of the printed parts, they certainly flex more than PLA.
As far as dimensional accuracy goes I really have my doubts about this particular filament but the mechanical qualities seem to be unbeatable for the money. This is all based on my own personal experience making functional parts from the stuff and ymmv, but Iāve been really pleased with it.
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