Overbuilt MPCNC table

I have everything purchased to start my MPCNC build, while I’m waiting for the parts to arrive and my replacement hotend for the 3d printer to arrive as well to keep on printing (I’m so scared to print the core…), I’ll start working on the table.


(fusion360, this is the current config for the drawers, a few thin ones to store anything needed for the MPCNC, and a few larger ones to store…, stuff)
(the transparent blue box is the max machine footprint for my build)

it is overbuilt in the sense that I do really appreciate a sturdy workbench, I’m a woodworker (guitarbuilder), so this is supposed to be my strength…, it’s still gonna be pretty simple to build workbench without any fancy joinery if anyone wants to do something similar, because this what I call functional furniture, not exactly pretty, it just works

I like using regular white pine for my builds and just go a little bigger, it works very well, no need for fancy hardwoods.

the idea of the project is not just to have a sturdy surface for the MPCNC to work, but also space for a simple enclosure (just to collect chips/dust) and lots of space for drawers to store stuff (small workshop)

also, anything important do I need to consider in the design that I’m missing, please let me know xd’

cheers from Chile!

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Looks great, can wait to see it built!

@PtolemaiosLS , welcome! Looking good. Here are a few general comments.

  • A lot of people like to use a torsion box for the table top. Not sure if you’re doing that on your design but if not you might want to check it out.

  • Make sure you account for a replaceable spoil board. I’ve seen a couple builds that have forgotten about that and end up with a reduced z height.

  • Shorter legs = stiffer build. If you need larger z travel it may be better to go with a drop table design. You could also add material under the legs to elevate the machine and use a thicker or thinner spoil board depending on your z requirement for the job. A few people have also extended the leg tubes into the table so you would manually telescope them out when you needed to cut something taller.

  • Don’t hesitate to ask questions when you run into a problem. There are a lot of friendly characters on the forum that have most likely experienced a similar situation.

Have fun. Looking forward to checking out your build.

-I’ve seen torsion boxes, and they seem overkill in my opinion, I’ll just go with a simple plywood or mdf top and the sturdy frame and the weight of it should give good enough results.

-the spoilboard will go on top of the plywood/MDF top, I haven’t designed how to attach the spoilboard…, but I’ll burn that bridge when I get to it
(I don’t want to use T-tracks, most likely I’ll use a threaded insert from below or just some screws to start with, then make something fancier if I need it.)

-shortest Z length possible (81mm), I really have to measure if it’s enough, because I want to work 2" hardwood, and + the bit length, I’m not sure the functional Z travel that I will have.

-and sure, this is why I opted for a custom build instead of purchasing a brand CNC, I love learning and sharing in communities.

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Yeah, I didn’t use a torsion box either but plan to when I eventually build my LR3.

However, I did go with a drop table design with the shortest legs. Works great for cutting tall items.

There are a few guitar builders on the forum so you might want to do a search for how they have built their machine.

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a box version seems extremely smart for doing tall objects!