Okay! I was looking at that and wondering. My close up vision is a little suspect sometimes so I put the ultra power readers on and looked a little closer.
If you want to send me 3 of those resistors I will take a shot at replacing them.
Pm me an address and ill get them out to you.
Im sorry it didnt work immediately. Did the board show up that way?
So I cleaned out the broken parts and put jumpers in across the terminals. Now I have 2 that āsort of brakeā and one that doesnāt. I am wondering if my bed is too heavy for it to stop once it starts.
Donāt worry about the resistors, I am going to order another board. Having some other issues now. Will be way easier in the long run!
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Verify each channel actually shorts without power by ohming where the blue marks are:
Maybe replace all the resistors with shorts and make sure the jumpers are shorted for max resistance.
Im perplexed how those would break and stand on end like that in the photo. The resistor value was chosen to mock a motor coil resistance. The prototype Iām using on my lr4 z axis has a straight short and i had to creatively sequence the power up so it doesnāt fault and alarm.
Will pull it and play with it. I changed the enable pin to the x motor so that as @Jonathjon says it gives it time to start up.
I ordered another one (@vicious1 did not have to discount it BTW, I was happy to pay and support) If I can get this one cobbled back together I will put it on the V4.
I will put the meter on them when I get a chance. Busy night tonight but it might happen.
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I can send 6 resistors
New board came today. Checked it and it looked great so I installed it. Works exactly like it should!
Pulled the other board and checked the terminals like you showed above. Some show shorts some donāt. poking around a little more I feel like you had a bad solder day that day! Not a problem on my end. It might be a reason for me to invest in a reflow workstation so I can do SMD in the future.
Super happy with the lack of a crash when the motors get disabled!
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Id like to look over that board. Pmād you about it.
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what size terminals are you using that fit in these itty bitty screw connectors? The smallest ones I have the pins donāt fit after crimping onto the 22awg wire
Those were the smallest screw terminals that fit the same form factir as a jst xh plug. Use the bare wire or tin the wire tips
soā¦ crimp whatever fits in the hole and heat shrink over the bare metalā¦ got it.
Also, I assume the 24v and gnd on the bottom 3-pin are just for powering the relays and not carrying stepper current?
Iāve tried a few different pins on my controller to trigger the relay. They all seem to only produce 2.8v outputs on the SKR Pro v1.2 . I need to wire in a transistor or something to trigger the 5v relay.
Do you have any unused 5v fan headers? I havenāt used @orob board yet but on my V5 I just used 24v relays and went from a heater port I believe. Now I cant remember for sure 
I may after I swap to CAN, but arenāt the fan outputs the same voltage as the controller? ie 24v ? Although, this does explain why my parts cooling fan screamsā¦ itās only a 12v fan and I didnāt account for that in my settings.
Yeah time to upgrade that one to a 24v fan
I thought there was at least one 5v fan output on the SKR but I could be wrong. Its been so loon since I have looked at one
I think used either 24ga or 26ga. The wire barely fits in.
What board are you using? The Mantas allow you to define the fan output voltages 5v, 12v, VIN.
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The relays are nested. A 5v signal switches the 5v relay that switches the led color and toggles the 24v that switches the 3 motor relays.
Ground is common for both relays. The thought process was that uif the 24v from motor power input dropped. The brakes would engage and if the 5v switch toggled (in klipper set as multipin with z and x enable pins) then they would engage. Either way the brakes kick on. If you put the 3 jumpers on the board in place then both motor coils switch and it is a quieter and slower coast down.
SKR Pro v1.2
The pro fans are only motor power output. The octopus lets you pick 5, 12, or 24 for fan output.
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