Well, I finally got around to creating new PayPal account and PayPal.me link for my Design8Studio.com stuff: paypal.me/design8studio
Consider this new link as my PayPal tip jar.
The previous link still works and is find, just does not have the right name/branding/look.
I would edit and replace but posts older than a certain age cannot be edited.
Doug,
Sorry to dredge this up but I have a question about the Y rail mounts on the unistrut:
Did you use the “standard” part, or did you remix it to have a little more meat for the screws? I looks like the holes might end up right on the corner of the unistrut.
If you did use the normal parts, what was the distance from the edge of the strut to the center of the holes you tapped?
Thanks,
Mike
Doug,
I looked at the pictures again and I see that you DID have a different part on the unistrut.
Have you posted that remix somewhere?
Mike
Hey, I did a couple of different remixes of the rail blocks (Y rail mounts), one for my router based LR3, and another one for my plasma based LR3. Up to this point I had not thought to share them. I will post them on Printables and come back here with a link.
Here you go, Mike:
https://www.printables.com/model/346611-lowrider-3-cnc-two-remixes-of-rail-blocks-234-mm-a
Doug,
Thanks so much, I’m just not that good with doing remixes and i figured that you must have already done it for your build.
The other questions was the distance for the tapped holes from the edge of the unistrut. I’m building a set up like your #1 described in the Printables post. I was planning on scribing a line parallel to the edge of the strut and then drilling all the holes with my drill press.
Could you please measure that distance to the hole center?
Mike
The distance from the “front” of the rail block to the center of the hole is 8.8mm.
That’s the distance from the inner side of your unistrut to where to drill.
Thank you, again. I’ll get started on the drilling and tapping.
Mike
Hey, when I said “inner side” — just for clarity, I was meaning the outside that faces inside toward the table. The measurement would be from the outer edge of the unistrut.
Thanks for the tip via PayPal! 
If your LowRider 3 CNC takes the normal approach, with a vac hose from below hanging on hose hangers, this listing has nothing for you.
If like me, your LowRider 3 CNC has a vac hose from above, and uses a drag chain, then you might find benefit here.
I have a shop-wide dust collection system, with 4" pipe, which has a drop down to my LowRider, and on the way down it gets tapered from 4" to 2.5" hose. I use a small drag chain on the LowRider, mounted on a modified version of the hose hangers.
This works great. However, in rare instances on 4’x8’ full-sheet cut jobs (which run the gamut on my table) the core can carry the hose into a position that risks it getting tangled underneath the drag chain. This can foul a cut job!
I seriously considered manufacturing a “boom arm” to constrain the hose’s movement, but I decided this low-tech approach would be easier, faster, and less expensive.
I’ve suspended a length of affordable aluminum angle brace, ¾" x ¾" x ¹⁄₁₆", held in place by a set of a printed part that serves for triple duty: it can serve as a lower mount for the drag chain, and for a support for areas where the drag chain lays but is not mounted, and in tandem with other braces like it, it holds up the aluminum angle brace that shields the drag chain from the vac hose. I installed one of them in place of every third hose hanger, for a total of 4. I named this part:
The above is enough protection for almost all instances, however, on full-sheet cut jobs, there is a place on the far left edge where the core can carry the hose into a coiled path that slips off the edge of the aluminum angle brace, and it can get hooked under it on the way back. To prevent that, I added a printed “flange” to the end of the aluminum. It gently keeps the vac hose on top of the shield, where it can slide along harmlessly. I named this part:
Re. the mount parts, I made an open version first, then a revision with webbing to brace it. I’m only uploading the one with bracing. If you need the open version for some reason, let me know.
The mount parts attach to the gantry by use of both the upper and lower screws that hold the strut plates. This is unlike the normal hose hangers that only use the lower screw.
I designed the mount part so there would be no need to undo wiring and redo it, merely because of some of the wires having been routed through the lower socket hole on the bottom of the earlier remix of the hose hangers. I loathe messing with the wiring once it’s working right. So, I used a dove-cut pull saw (IRWIN Dovetail Saw, 7-1/4-Inch - 213104) to slice through the lower socket on the old hose hanger parts (on every third one from my start point), and pried the gaps open enough to slip the wires out.
My new part has three support structure paths instead of two, so it could afford to leave an opening into the bottom area, so it’s now an open hook instead of a closed up hole. By squeezing the wiring sleeve a bit, I was able to insert my wiring (the wires that needed that lower pathway) into the new mount parts.
The screw holes on the printed mount parts, for holding the aluminum angle brace, are approximately M3 size x about 6mm deep, but I used #6 x ½" wood screws, tapered, with flat head (made for a countersunk install with the top being flush with the aluminum).
For drilling the holes in the aluminum, the placement of the holes is centered on the inside faces of the angle brace aluminum. Once you get them placed and drilled, you can use a larger drill bit to get the counterbore for countersinking the screws, if you desire that.
To drill the smaller holes for the screws, I used a ⅛" drill bit. To counterbore them for countersinking, I used a ⁵⁄₁₆" bit.
The holes in the printed flange part, for attaching it to the aluminum, are M5, and they pass all the way through, with wells on the other side for nuts, giving enough room to grip the nuts with either a socket or needle nose pliers.
Re. screws for mounting the flange, I used two (2) M5x20mm screws. I used regular nuts, although you could use nylock if you wish.
For drilling hole size, I used a ¹³⁄₆₄" drill bit. A ³⁄₁₆" bit could also be used. The first hole is centered 12.5mm from the end of the aluminum. The second hole is 25mm from the first, center to center.
My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio
Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:
View all my models and remixes on Printables:
*Amazon product links are affiliate links.
What is the function of the “flange”? In the last picture?
I had explained my reasoning for the flange. It’s in the second part of this quote from above.
Yeah, my bad. I see now that you explanied it in great detail!
Amazon affiliate links:
DOWNLOAD LINK for printable magnet holder:
https://www.printables.com/model/446174-for-lowrider-cnc-or-other-cnc-magnetic-tip-for-tou
Two G-Code scripts for Probing to touch plate:
Two GCode scripts for Probe to touchplate.zip (2.1 KB)
Watch this quick video for about all you need to know on this printed part.
And for more cool details on using the GCode script and/or making your own touch plate, watch the second video (linked below) as well.
You can order the Tiny Touch Plate from Ryan at V1 Engineering for less than $9 here: Tiny Touch Plate – V1 Engineering Inc
It’s also possible you already have in your shop most or all the needed components to make your own touch plate. See list below. (If you don’t already have all or almost all of this in your shop, you probably ought to buy kit from Ryan at link above):
In the video, I mistook the two wire gauges as 20 and 24, but they were likely 18 and 22! Only one is needed, not both, and the 22 gauge is recommended.
Print settings:
In case you need details on where to plug the wires from your probe (touch plate) into your control board, assuming a BigTreeTech SKR board on a LowRider using V1E firmware with dual end stops, the probe is to be connected to Z-min, as shown in this image:
My PayPal tip jar: PayPal.Me
Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes: “LowRider 3 CNC Collection” Printables
View all my models and remixes on Printables “Design8Studio 3D models”: Printables
*Amazon product links are affiliate links.
Hi excelent work
question how do i add this to my post processor file
Hey, what software are you using for your CAM work to output your GCode?
this is my post processor
Marlin_mm.zip (1.0 KB)
but i what to add all your useful info to my postprocessor but im a noob and trying to add it but get a error
im using vectric aspire
this is my post processor
Marlin_mm.zip (1.0 KB)
but i what to add all your useful info to my postprocessor but im a noob and trying to add it but get a error
