I just found a local Home Depot listing for 3/16" Tempered Hardboard Panel. I may do that. Or I may double up the 1/8" hardboard. 
@vicious1
You are a genius and the LR3 is amazing. I have no doubt that if mine has some issue, it’s due to me going off-script somewhere and not properly following the steps. I don’t for a moment think it’s the design.
Most of the plywood you get at either the blue or orange chruch is garbage. It’s full of voids.
Just to frame this in, you feel your twist in the center is worse on this as compared to your LR2?
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My LR1 (which has a similar gantry to LR2) always was easy to twist in the middle. It never affected my cuts (AFAIK). But it also had a natural tendency to be level.
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Honestly, twist was not really on my radar before when I was using the LR2. What put it onto my radar was — due to the fact I mistakenly only cut one LR3 strut before I dismantled the LR2, I wound up having to do some cutting with only one strut. Lots of twist of course. Once it was on my radar, I checked for it even after I got the other two struts mounted. I saw a little (though not nearly like when I had only one strut). I may have had some twist on LR2 and just didn’t catch it.
That said, I still would like to get my LR3 as rigid as reasonably doable. I just now did a side by side comparison of a 1/8" hardboard strut and a 1/4" plywood strut. Just from a standpoint of “flexing” I think I’d be ahead to switch to the plywood. And I have these SS tubes leftover from LR2. And I really could use another 10mm on my beam’s length, which would require rebuilding it anyhow…
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No way to know for sure until you try it.
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It’s a shame about the ¼" limit. I was thinking an 8mm laminate flooring plank could have been a perfect fit here.
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I am making progress on extending my beam by 10 more mm.
I have the new struts cut and cleaned up (light sanding, removing furries). I just spray painted my new struts (black oil based enamel) and waiting on them to dry.
Coincidentally, the switch to a longer beam will also involve using my 25.4 stainless steel tubes from the LR2 (cutting them down now).
I have almost all the new braces printed.
Note: I know there are pros and cons to using capture slots for nuts on the braces. The main pro is ease of assembly. The main con (I think) is the potential for the capture slots to “strip out” and lose their grip on the nuts. A secondary con is if the nut is crooked the threads can get fouled. All that said, I keep the nuts straight by having a bolt through them while I insert them, and I plan to put a little epoxy on each nut to help prevent the “plastic strip out” issue. Thus, I am using braces I tweaked to have nut capture slots on all three sides. I will report back how it goes.
I am also still pondering (pretty intently) on whether to switch the X and Y axes with each other and if so by what means exactly.
I am seeking to document here my firmware edits & hardware changes, in my successful process of …
…swapping X and Y axes on a Lowrider v3 with dual end stops, with an SKR Pro 1.2 main board and BTT TFT35-e3 v3.
MARLIN FIRMWARE EDITS
In configuration_adv.h, there were five (5) edits. I changed the following:
- Uncommented “#define X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS”
- Uncommented “#define X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS”
- Commented out: “#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS”
- Commented out: “#define Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS”
- Changed “#define X2_USE_ENDSTOP _XMAX_” to “#define X2_USE_ENDSTOP _YMAX_”
Here are the “before and after” code sections:
BEFORE:
//#define X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS
#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)
//#define INVERT_X2_VS_X_DIR // Enable if X2 direction signal is opposite to X
//#define X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)
#define X2_USE_ENDSTOP _XMAX_
#define X2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0
#endif
#endif
#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS
#if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)
#define INVERT_Y2_VS_Y_DIR // Enable if Y2 direction signal is opposite to Y
#define Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)
#define Y2_USE_ENDSTOP _YMAX_
#define Y2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0
#endif
#endif
AFTER:
#define X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS
#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)
//#define INVERT_X2_VS_X_DIR // Enable if X2 direction signal is opposite to X
#define X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)
#define X2_USE_ENDSTOP _YMAX_
#define X2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0
#endif
#endif
// #define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS
#if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)
#define INVERT_Y2_VS_Y_DIR // Enable if Y2 direction signal is opposite to Y
// #define Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)
#define Y2_USE_ENDSTOP _YMAX_
#define Y2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0
#endif
#endif
Firmware Download:
-
If you were using the V1 Engineering LowRider Dual Endstop firmware.bin file, and you are OK with a precompiled copy of it that has the changes for swapping X & Y, as detailed above, then you can use the firmware.bin file provided in this listing (link below). If not, you may tweak the included editable source Marlin folder provided. It was made based on “Marlin_V1CNC_SkrPro_DualLR_2209_2.0.9.2_513-src.zip” which was downloaded from V1 Engineering, and is renamed as “V1CNC_SkrPro_DualLR_2209-2.0.9.2 (SWAP X & Y) 2022-06-21.zip.”
-
Firmware Download Link: http://design8studio.com/files/V1CNC_SkrPro_DualLR_2209-2.0.9.2-SWAP-X-Y-2022-06-21.zip
HARDWARE CHANGES
- I moved the former X end stop switch (which is becoming the new Y end stop switch) from the left side of the LR Core to the right side of the core, attaching it to a newly designed & printed end stop mount that attaches to the former X stepper motor mount, which is becoming the new Y stepper mount. I also re-ran its wiring accordingly.
- I designed, printed, and installed a newly remixed “stub” on the right side of the old X axis (new Y axis, on the new Y-min side). The only change was to add a “stop” bar for the relocated X end stop (new Y end stop) to press against and trigger its switch. This stub is the part that the X belt (new Y belt) attaches to, and which also attaches to the lead screw on that side.
- In control box, I swapped the wires for X1 driver and Y1 driver with each other and re-labeled accordingly.
- In control box, I swapped the wires for X1 end stop and Y1 end stop with each other and re-labeled accordingly.
- In control box, I re-labeled the Y2 end stop as the new X2 end stop while leaving it plugged into the same pins, at E1 (on the SKR Pro 1.2).
Note: Some of what needed done could have been accomplished more than one way, such as firmware changes only, or physical rewiring only, and where I could, I chose to physically move wires and relabel them. This limited the number of needed firmware searching and edits.
Q. No ‘mirrored’ projects? You didn’t have to remap the coordinate system?
A. Correct. It works exactly as intended and expected, without any need for ‘mirroring’ projects or remapping of coordinates.
Check out a few seconds of video showing that no mirroring or other headaches are needed:
DOWNLOAD PRINTED PARTS
https://www.printables.com/model/229940-lowrider-3-cnc-reversal-of-homing-on-short-axis-fo
Aside from moving the end stop, it was as simple as adding on a “tab” onto the stub-right, for the end stop switch to touch for triggering. Here’s a pic of the modified stub. More pics below.
Why add it to the stub?
The stopping point for the switch to touch, has to be “part” of the whole assembly that raises and lowers with the beam itself. It’s likely unworkable to try to use the YZ plate’s flat side as the stop point, as you’d likely see the end stop switch get higher than the side plate itself while the beam is Z-homed to the top max, and then snap off your switch’s trigger finger when then moving back downward.
Here are some pics, including some of the modified stub:
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OK, good news. I have now added USB port opening in the E3 version of the TFT holder v1.2.
https://www.printables.com/model/229885-lowrider-3-cnc-control-box-case-for-btt-skr-pro-12
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Hi there Doug
Your build is looking great!
I used your remixes shoe and hangers for 2.5” hose, but my particular routing and machine location is causing issues with the regular hose routing path.
I’m planning to mount an overhead boom arm and suspend my hose- I believe you do this also? Any chance you have some pics you could share of that aspect?
Thanks so much!
My current setup for dust collection system has my Harbor Frieght collector on the other side of a wall (in the unfinished garage side of my basement) while my LowRider and other workshop items are on the finished side. The 4" PVC pipe from the HF collector go up to the ceiling before coming through the wall. I carry the pipe suspended along the ceiling on the finished side. I used my 3D printed zip tie mounts to suspend the pipe. My designs for those are available on Printables:
v1.1: Printables
v2.1 (improved): Printables
From there I have three drops from above. Actually two, but the second one splits into two. One of the drops is directly over my LowRider table, about in the center (close but not exactly centered). From there it gets changed at the blast gate down from 4" to 2.5" hose. I use a distinctly low-tech approach to hold the middle of the 2.5" hose with a thick strand made of multiple rubber bands. This is anchored at the lower end to the 2.5" hose and at the upper end it is anchored to the 4" pipe overhead.
I seem to be marginally OK with this, although it could surely be improved. I have had too much else going on to focus much more attention on it.
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Appreciate the info
I have the same dust collector but I fitted it with a replacement rikoh impeller to boost performance- I can get 1200 cfm through 5” duct. I have low-ish ceilings so I run duct over the floor, with quick attach magnet collars so I can move it out the way quickly.
Anyway- I think I’ll do a swing out arm from the wall next to the far end of the table and use it to suspend 2.5” hose over the middle of the table.
Thanks!
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Sounds great. love to see pics of it.
Nothing special. Got busy with other stuff but it works
Cnc’ing is so much fun I barely stop to improve the ‘temporary’ infrastructure. I will soon though
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While I am here- looking at laser options, neje A40 or the E40. Either look good.
Wondering if you’ve had experience trying a laser on the lr2/3, using the ‘p9’ header, or if you recommend something else.
Appreciate the info!
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I have a NEJE master 7w laser and was wondering the same. It would be awesome to mount it to the cnc without removing the laser. If this is possible, i may redesign the router mount to add a side mount for the laser.
The only upgrade I made to my HF dust collector was to order a nice big pleated filter canister to replace the filter bag that comes with it. Huge improvement. The Stumpy Nubs woodworking channel on YouTube has a great video explaining why and how helpful this is. I ordered the one he recommended.
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