Ran an ethernet cable to the printer to get rid of weird wifi issues. I thought I had those fixed, but they creeped back in somewhere in the last 2 days.
While I was at it, I finally got octoscreen working on the external hdmi monitor with touch screen. My need to switch to Klipper is now less than what it was. I still want to make the switch, but things are stable again and with more of the features I would have picked up by switching.
I git the 3d printers both hard wired to ethernet now. These little unifi mini POE powered switches are pretty awesome.
I need to figure out why the MP3DPv4 has a wonky bed. Maybe my aluminum plate isn’t flat? Not sure how to fix that at this point. I do use screws in the 4 corners to build my plate. Maybe that corner just needs to be tightened a bit more.
It does look to me like your right rear is too tight and left rear is too loose. Under 1mm is not actually too bad in my opinion, obviously it can get better
It’s not horrible. I do need to figure out why the printer isn’t actually using this information. I’m working on a rather large print that uses most of the print bed. Watching the first layer print, it still squished the high parts and almost didn’t have any bed adhesion at all on the low parts. I think I missed a g-code command somewhere.
Yeah… Layer shift… 10 hour print. Shifted slightly about half-way through the print. In this case, it’s still usable. I’ll need to figure out what happened. This print is using almost the entire bed size, so I wonder if my umbilical grabbed on something when going from the back left to the front right.
I finally ordered the ‘brakes’ for the z axis 
I figure I’ll install them when I go to swap over to the Manta8P board and Klipper. I have a tendency to need to restart klipper a lot when firs setting it up and I just know I’m going to drop that bed a few times.
I think I finally have the rest of the hardware working reliable enough that I’m ok with spending more time on the software/controller side of the printer.
You can just use regular relays. I did find that the 3.3v logic of the skr 1.2 pro isnt enough to flip the 5v relay on the brakes to turn them off. I added a blue relay like the ones Ryan sells to take the 3.3v signal and toggle the 5v brake board. The initial brake boards were tested on an octopus board with 5v logic signals.
I used regular relays, and am running the Manta M8P as well
My config is all up on Github if you need it
I like to throw money at Ryan every so often for keeping the lights on on this board. I don’t run much V1 equipment anymore, but I still tend to spend quite a bit of time here in the off topic area.
He sells both the single relays and the z brake board.
I saw that. I just grabbed the board for simplicity.
