I get that completely. I hate having to change things. Then I have to remember to go back and change it later lol. I really need to learn how to use the different profiles lol
Amen!!!
2 Likes
Using this as the solution to make the stupid red box go away 
Can you show how you use these on the cedar strips?
I’ll be taking pictures later this morning when I throw them up on Printables.
They’re used with clamps to hold the strips to the forms. If you watch Nick Schade’s videos on YouTube you’ll see him using plywood versions. I just liked the idea of using plastic so glue didn’t stick to them.
link to a post with a link to the jigs
For those new to the thread and have been following links.
This is the Heater I used in my build.
A bit more information regarding the Heater setup… copied from a PM:
Yup. Same SSR as the bed heater. I trigger the SSR with the 12V output from a smaller relay that’s used to turn the 12v fan on.
I trigger the relay directly off of the Raspberry Pi using a home-grown Pi plugin that I wrote
The two relay boards I’m using can just barely be seen on a bright green mount in the middle of this picture just to the left of the SSRs. One is used to turn on the fan in the top of the cabinet for exhaust, the second turns on the Heater fan and heater SSR.
You can also see the back of the heater fan in the bottom left corner. I 3d printed a fan mount to marriage the fan to the heater.
2 Likes
I finally started working on the aluminum core today. I almost got one part finished and broke the tap off in the part. I really dislike cheap taps.
Luckily, the part is salvageable. I really don’t think the bottom brace needs all 3 bolts. I’ll continue with what I have and of this works, I’ll make a replacement.
The plan is to make all the parts, then go back and add lightening holes all over to reduce weight.
2 Likes
Just need to tap some holes and these three parts are done.
Then I need to make the two belt clamps and a brace and I’ll be ready to test it out.
Assuming it fits.
1 Like
That’s going to be so cool if it works. Cant wait to see it in action!
I am watching to see your Belt mounts. I have some ideas for V4…but you are a few steps ahead of me.
Did you 3d print a test part for fit, or did you go full wild man and just go straight to metal?
I 3d printed test parts to make sure the design lined up. I did not install the 3d printed design onto the machine.
I have lots of extra material to redesign parts if needed.
1 Like
I was considering something similar. Either a single bend, or how many can I TIG together in an hour? I might just have to turn the rail so it is a flat sheet instead.
1 Like
Bolts and adhesive on par with how Lotus Elise Alu chassis was bonded (type of epoxy)? More modern UV curable, and lower curing temp solutions exist. Hopefully some automotive/adhesive/chemical folks here will chime in?
Maybe CNC plate based core, with 3D printed jig to hold parts in place (dimensionally accurate) until adhesive cures, assuming not needing to heat cure? No idea what service temps they can support.
1 Like
Never even crossed my mind to use an adhesive. That is slick.
I’ve got aluminum spool gun for my mig welder that I’m ok with. Tig welding aluminum has always been a major snag for me for some reason. I can tig steel and it look pretty good. But aluminum kicks my ass every time lol
I thought about turning the x axis 90 degrees, but you’d have to somehow put bolts through both directions. 4 for the extruder and 4 for the bearing.
Alternatively, if you twisted it so the bearing faced the back, you could use c channel so all the bolts come in from the back.
1 Like
I’m using 8mm bolts to hold everything together.
Very cool. Since you’re already skilled at milling and tapping Alu…
Anyone seen, or already using, linear rail blocks that can be rear/back screwed? Like this flanged rail block, but with untapped pass through holes.
If so, could that help to simplify Core, or at least get more direct contact between linear block and Extruder? “Core plate” ends up being a milled Alu plate sandwiched between linear block and extruder. The “Core plate” ends up large enough to mount probe/EBB directly and/or via 3D printed parts. Assembly would be…
- Mount Extruder to “Core plate”
- Then mount “Core plate” to rail block via rail block’s rear accessible mount holes…
Could achieve something similar using stock rail block by using 2 milled Alu (or 3D printed?) plates sandwiched between the rail block and Extruder I guess? The MP3DP rail would need to be rotate 90deg about x axis though. Assembly would be…
- Mount Extruder to “Core plate front”
- Mount “Core plate rear” to rail block
- Mount “Core plate front” assembly to “Core plate rear” assembly.
Completely replacing stock linear rail block with your own Alu rail block sounds tricky. That would provide an opportunity to have longer rail block though (more stable?) .
If not a completely new linear rail block, then could maybe Alu mill and/or 3D-print single part that replaces the side seals with mounting holes for Extruder, etc…
Ideally stock extruders casings (or optional upgrade casing…) would include mount hole layout/spacing for common (?) rail block. So no shims or adaptors plate(s) are needed.