No joy, just kicks on with vigor and immediately backs down to a slower rate.
Tried 1kHz and 0.8kHz, no change. I started with 4000Hz because that is what it recommends with the Onefinity settings:
Weird
No joy, just kicks on with vigor and immediately backs down to a slower rate.
Tried 1kHz and 0.8kHz, no change. I started with 4000Hz because that is what it recommends with the Onefinity settings:
Weird
âŚS500, S1000, and S5000 are all slower than your minimum speed of 10,000. Try using S10000 or higher.
Edit: Also their docs say to avoid PWM duty cycles less than ~32%, so you may want to get rid of the 20% stuff and add a 0=32% to the speed map.
Thanks @dos , that is what I was missing in my logic. Works great once I understand what I am working with! S15000 spun it right up, 30000 put to full speed.
I assumed that since the speed map was defined through % that the M3 callout would be some multiple of the %. In other words S1000 does NOT equal 100%⌠in retrospect âSâ probably means speed.
Re-reading the spindle speed map wiki again closely I believe my speed map is sound. The 20% to 32% would be the âshelfâ as they define it as a minimum speed, so anything called out under speed would default to 10,000rpm, which is what I kept running into by calling out S1000 and under.
Thanks @jeyeager for the tips as well
Fits good in the Makita mount, as expected. You have to bend the wires up pretty good and get them in the first core zip tie spot or it will hit the Z lead screw. No big deal. Havenât spun it up yet.
I spy with my little eye a new touchplate holder. ![]()
Ryan has this habit of tossing little surprises in pictures, but I never seem to pay close enough attention.
you are not the only one ![]()
agree with making a 230v , as i really need to upgrade my old cheap router before it rattles apart on me and this looks like a better idea than trying get my head around setting up a spindle
wondering how a 110v / 230v convertor would work with it , can anyone throw some light on it please
even if i convert it to new Zealand dollars its still $150 cheaper than a makita in NZ,
but its the shipping thatâs the killer , shipping to NZ is $146.99 us nearly the same as the router ![]()
still very tempting, for $100 more than a makita including shipping to be able to control speed is very tempting
It should be within the range of an autotransformer easily enough⌠~800W so a decent size but nothing too crazy, although the actual on-going power draw is likely to be around half that. Some things have an issue with inrush current being limited by the transformer so itâs probably something youâll just have to try and see. If it does have an issue, a higher rated transformer would be the next step.
Whatever it is, Iâd be looking for a transformer based solution, not something that looks like itâs doing it via a switch-mode power supply. It looks like ~$100 or so from somewhere like Jaycar for something thatâd do the job.
Topmaq have a clone for ~$125ish that might be worth a look, otherwise they pop up 2nd hand occasionally. I spent $300 on one on special from Powertool Centre Onehunga not that long ago.
cheers for the reply an info ,
might even have yarn to me sparkie, as need to get board redone as not meeting code anymore and see if he can put something on the board even and run a direct 110 line to my workshop
some of topmaq stuff isnât to bad , ive been running the nordic trim router on my LR4 for a year as a starting tool and it actually surprised me that its still running , starting to make some grinding noises inside now haha
https://www.topmaq.co.nz/710w-laminate-trimmer-corded-poro1310
Thereâs nothing theyâll be able to put in the board thatâll help, itâll end up being a big plug-in box but thatâs all good. Itâs an easy enough solution if you want to go that way.
Yeah, if youâve gotten decent life out of it, getting a replacement and then seeing if you can gut the old one and replace brushes or bearings might be a go.
not worth it and the speed dial was never reliable, been toying with getting a spindle for a while , but reading the threads on programming them puts me off ,this i reckon i can get my head around
You guys are bad for my finances. Just ordered the AutoSpin. Time to reprint my mount for Makita instead of the DeWalt on there now.
whatâs the noise like compared to a makita ?
Iâd say pretty comparable. Thereâs no magic bullet to make a palm router masquerade as a âproperâ spindle. I use âproperâ very loosely.
I got my T1 on Monday and have it installed and ready to rock. When I get a chance, Iâll post some basic instructions as well as the configuration and speed mappings I used.
I measured the RPMs with a digital tach and the speeds are within 100-200 RPM of the speed sent to the device. Mapping could probably be tuned a bit more - I used the ramp details from the manual and itâs good enough for my purposes.
The only gripe so far is one that Ryan already pointed out and its the power cord exit on the device. Itâs not very fun to get it cranked down and out of the way so it isnât crashing into stuff.
Iâll provide some more feedback once I knock out some cuts and get it dialed in.
If it is like any of the other routers we have used that part comes off anyway. I always take them off since we do not need the wear protection. I just slide them all the way down to the plug just in case I ever take the router off.
I also cut the cable at about 1ft and add in a replacement plug. It adds risk. But I like not having to fish the wire back through when I take off the router.
Not if you use a twistlock connector pair.