NEW, NEW VER: Jackpot CNC Controller Board case with 25mm added room, plexiglas window, and optional keystone jack slot v2.0

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

OK, here is the link for new v2.0 - which (as requested by V1E maker @MakerJim) has various options for keystone jack slot in base. This can be used with, for example, an ethernet jack for quick connect / quick disconnect.

Printables

Other minor changes in this remix:

• As suggested by a V1E maker sometime back, the lid now has a support spanning the gap at the top of the print to prevent racking during handling before gluing in the plexiglas lid.
• As suggested by V1E maker @MakerJim, the M3 screw holes for mounting the Jackpot board are now clear through, to allow use of more various lengths of screws.

NOTE: This is v2.0. If you were looking for v1.0 or 1.1, click below:

• v1.0
• v1.1

Why v2.0 instead of 1.2?

• Because the new 2.0 lid does not work with the old 1.2 base, and because the new 2.0 base does not work with the old 1.2 lid.

I made a v1.0 (or v1.1). Should I do this one?

• Not unless you’re just dying to have the new keystone jack slot. Otherwise, nothing to gain, really. The other changes here are minor.

I did not make a v1.0 or v1.1. Should I do this one?

• Yes. Nothing missing here, more options, nothing to lose with this new v2.0.

Do any of the parts from v1.0 or v1.1 work with v2.0?

• Well… not really. Sure, the clear plexiglas skylight window in the lid is still the same design. But… you probably glued in your skylight window with v1.0 or v1.1, so reusing it is not workable.

[waimea]

Good job! A small thought, some creators on printables use the “tiny text” for each model. I found this really helpful, i.e. it says “print 1x” etc.

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

@waimea

some creators on printables use the “tiny text” for each model

I’m not sure what this means. Can you expound on this a bit more?

[waimea]

Yeah, of course.

Here the tiny text is “Glue in place behind…” I find that this makes it easier.

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

@waimea

Ah, I don’t know when they snuck in that feature, but that is helpful. I used it just now to try to distribute some of the text so the names could be shorter. Hopefully I did not leave people out in the cold after they download, by moving info into the other field, that may not follow the model parts after the download.

[MakerJim]

Just started working with this one.

I downloaded the file

BASE + ETHERNET KEYSTONE (Right).stl

On this file, Flashprint declared the .stl needed repair, so I did that.

I tried to place it on the build plate with the fan/keystone side down. In doing so, there is a weird vertex present, so the slicer complains the part is not on the bed. Not all of the face is in the first layer.

I adjusted the position down -.02mm, and that seems to yield a usable slice.

One of the FFCPs is warming up now and I’ll print it shortly.

Your description shows that orientation on the bed in the slicer- but it might help users to call that out early in the description (or orient the STLs that way)

Thanks again for the time you put into these.

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

I must have made some mistake. I was tired. I will look into this asap. Thanks for the heads up!!

[MakerJim]

@DougJoseph

Thanks for the heads up!!

Thank you for your efforts.
I’m able to print what I have, and it’ll take a while to run.

I’ll post results as I get them.

Nothing urgent, so take your time and don’t feel any need to rush or respond.

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

@MakerJim

BASE + ETHERNET KEYSTONE (Right).stl

On this file, Flashprint declared the .stl needed repair, so I did that.

I imported into OrcaSLicer my file (same as what I uploaded to Printables) and it showed no errors. It also slices with no errors.

I then also downloaded all the files from Printables (to check “full circle”) and imported into OrcaSLicer the downlaoded file and it showed no errors. It also slices with no errors.

@MakerJim

In doing so, there is a weird vertex present, so the slicer complains the part is not on the bed. Not all of the face is in the first layer

In the file I downloaded from Printables, I re-imported that as a mesh back into the modeling program, and I see the weirdness you are talking about. However, the whole thing shows as co-planer on the face that should go against the bed.

I am tweaking the source file to re-output with hopefully prevening the weird thing.

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

This is the sliced first layer of the file downloaded from Printables (full circle test).

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

@MakerJim

there is a weird vertex present, so the slicer complains the part is not on the bed.

OK, I re-edited all the variations of bases, and re-uploaded them to Printables. If you get a chance, try just looking at it in your slicer after a fresh download.

[MakerJim]

I’ve been able to make a little progress.

The first print (Where I lowered the base -.02mm ) failed.
It popped off the build plate and spaghetti-ified.
The reason for that (Aside from needing even better adhesion) is that there is upwards curling happening on the overhang shown below. Top right of the print has an upwards curl.

I didn’t orient this one the best way, as the FFCP is dual extruder and if you don’t keep such things out of the Y axis line, then every curl gets hit by both extruders multiple times per layer.

For narrow, tall prints this eventually pops the part off the bed.

Couldn’t get this to focus, but you can see the tip of the curl where it finally caught hard and popped off the bed.

As you may be able to see, the keystone jack port looks great and printed very well.

I re-oriented this and started a fresh print with a brim. It looks great, and I’ll fit a jackpot on it late today.

I was going to print a new lid, but realized that there is the same issue.

The added feature to close out the top of the lid will probably ensure repeated print failures for me for the same reason- long overhangs that will curl.

Since it’s at the very top of a narrow, tall print, this will be worse for me than not having a part closure.

The previous lid without that feature printed quite well as can be seen in the picture above of the v1.1 case.

If you zoom in on the top left of the previous lid design, you can see the curling starting to happen in the overhang portion. The previous lid design just didn’t have that overhang long enough for it to be a problem.

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

Got it. I may rework it.

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

@MakerJim

The added feature to close out the top of the lid will probably ensure repeated print failures for me for the same reason- long overhangs that will curl.

Since it’s at the very top of a narrow, tall print, this will be worse for me than not having a part closure.

The previous lid without that feature printed quite well as can be seen in the picture above of the v1.1 case.

If you zoom in on the top left of the previous lid design, you can see the curling starting to happen in the overhang portion. The previous lid design just didn’t have that overhang long enough for it to be a problem.

The Printables listing has been updated, both to add lid with no cross bar, and lid with cross bar, but the overhang angle is now not as steep, at 50 degrees, which would hopefully print better without supports, avoiding the curling issue.

[MakerJim]

Fresh off the TAZ 5: Success with the no cross bar version.
I’ll eventually try the revised cross bar as well for one of my spare/test jackpot boards.

Thanks again for your time and effort.