They do the same thing for me. I’ll order something from Prusa and it’ll land in Indianapolis and then go to Memphis. Date will change and then it’ll head to Wisconsin. So weird.
HA!
Sorry.
Really though, don’t worry about it. More time to plan. 
I have AliExpress packages, just now arriving, from +100 days ago. Every time I receive an order, whatever I’m building has already reached another revision, requiring another order. Can’t. Catch. Up.
Extras are good!
I remember how scared I was when my mk3s and burly kits arrived, on the same day, and I realized that there were no extra screws! 
The first thing I did was go to a local bolt supply and buy lbs of nuts and bolts. Just wish I could get metric around here somewhere…
Ace hardware has the best selection of small metric screws here. They aren’t cheap if you’re buying a lot though.
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Good to know. 54 miles away!
I’m measuring all the bolts and nuts I received from china, and so many are mislabeled or missing. Bolt Depot, it is, I guess.
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As I am also building in germany i can give the future builders a tip regarding the screws…don’t buy them online. Just buy them at your local hardware store. I got 50 M8x40 DIN933 for 5,40€, that’s half the price of the mentioned online store (which I also looked at a couple of days ago) 
Edit: The store I went to was Bauhaus
Thanks, I didn’t find one around here, though I didn’t look very hard. The local chain (Hornbach) didn’t have them. There might be a small store though that came to mind after I had already ordered.
I think we need M8x40 DIN931 (‘Mit Schaft’ for the german speaking guys out there).
DIN933 is completely threaded.
For my Burly build I used DIN931 screws.
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Correct me if I am wrong, but from my understand this is not really critical for the build. You can use both. I think in the building manual there are fully threaded bolts used.
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I am not sure, if it makes a difference.
The picture of the Burly upgrade kit shows screws with a shaft, not fully threaded.
On the other hand, the instructions show fully threaded screws, as you already pointed out.
One of the mechanical designers here can probably give clarification.
We have time to discuss types of screws to be used while waiting for the 25mm version…
I’d guess it depends if they’re loaded in tension or shear.
That’s what I figured. They are used for the bearings which are tension joint right? I mean the inner ring of the bearring will be pressed agains the printed parts.
These bolts are so large, and the stress is so small, the threads are fine. They are chosen for their ability to fit with a bearing and be long enough to reach through the printed parts. Steel threads vs steel rod is not going to matter.
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I think the larger bolts, M5+ are available in a few sizes at lowes, hd, and fastenal.
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Apart from the stress on the screws…
For these types of screws the shaft is slightly larger in diameter than the thread itself. Means it is closer to the 10mm diameter of the bearings. Considering, that the screws act as the axis for the bearings there is less play between screw and bearing if they run on the shaft.
I would vote for screws with shafts…
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They are but I agree with Jeff, highly unlikely you could develop enough shearing force with plastic parts on steel. IIRC tensile strength of a basic Grade 5 bolt is slightly more than 100,000psi.
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I’ve been in the forums for a long time, and I’m not perfect, but I’ve never seen a case where the problem was solved by swapping with a screw that had a shaft. Any difference in the diameter will be cleaned up with a quarter turn on the tension bolts.
The primo is new though, so who knows. But my guess is it will be even more tolerant of slightly off tolerance bolts.
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But they dont run on the shaft. The inner ring is pressend against the plastic part, so the inner ring stands still. Only the outer ring will turn.
I have to order my printnc fastners and, apparently, missing voron bolts, as well as all the new MPCNC screws, nuts and bolts.
Right now, I’ve got a spreadsheet and caliper out, measuring and counting all my mislabeled and existing bolts.
You’re right though. If I want to make any headway, at least on the voron, I’ll have to pick up some stuff from HD. The rest, because the quantities are larger, will have to be bolt depot. HD really 
you on the metric pricing.
Also, you’re so helpful. Thank you.
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Other than setting the motor pully distance, what is the purpose of the wire Darryl?