I used to do that when I was in the house and could hear the beep, but eventually if you leave it, the hot end and the heated bed will turn off and then with some build plates, the part will just pop off.
Also the MMU2s’ sensor (that replaces the original one on the MK3s) is garbage so I have to have it turned off
Ultimaker has a nice setup, there are NFC chips on their rolls, and the firmware detected which roll was being used and kept track of how much filament was printed with that roll. Unfortunately their rolls were obnoxiously overpriced ($80/kg) and the whole system falls apart if you use another brand of filament.
We’re pedaling as fast as we can Ryan, haha. Your creative genius revelations do not come to our fulfillments as fast as they do for you. We are just mere mortals. Remember all the begging for you to get the Primo final design and parts posted? Haha. You’ll just have to cool your jets for a while and let it all happen before your eyes. Cool off a few brewskys and take a break for a week or so. Make another humorous youtube video if you get bored…please. Haha.
Kenny, thank you so much for your extensive edits. The docs are much more refined and I really do appreciate it. We all know grammar and spelling are things I rarely pay attention to (or just don’t see). I just looked over those edits again and wanted everyone to know you really helped us all out with that one. Thank you for the time you put in!
Thats painful. Every time I checked on my print of the core (53 hours!) I worried I would walk in on this. I had a few parts pull off the build plate during my Burly build and had to reprint them. Although I spent days recalibrating the printer before I started the Primo prints, I still bought an extra roll of filament…just in case.
That blows… I guarantee every single one of us was crapping our pants thinking it would be us posting this pic. This happened when I was printing the four top corners (and it fell off the back and triggered the jam detection so at least I didn’t lose more filament), but luckily I got through my core just fine.
For what it’s worth, I used a 12mm brim on my core as well as cleaning the textured spring steel with IPA and applying fresh glue stick. Then I raised the bed temp 5 degrees just to be safe. I didn’t want to take chances.
@vicious1 you are a genius. Just putting things together and wanted to see how far the gantry gets to the 0,0 corner and I noticed this little curved in piece in the trucks, adding a little extra room
My pause will keep the bed on, hot end turns off, but my filament change scripts preheat for removal and insertion, so I don’t worry about that. I’ve come home to the printer waiting patiently for me to feed it.
Also, holy crap your print is looooooog!
I hope you already have 2 of the M8x40 at hand.
Looks like you ordered 44, the part list says you need 46.
I am also starting getting the screws and stuff, I will order 50 pieces.
Because, as you said, you always need screws…
The M5x30 I am planning to buy with TORX drive.
But I will go with A2 stainless screws like you , just for the looks.
Now I have a lot of leftover screws from the Burly I never built. -_- But eh, you always need screws.