That’s why you hire a Logistics Director, Technical Communications Director, etc… Just don’t forget to dress the part. Does Armani sell board shorts? 
Then it would feel like a job… 
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I wonder if you could get decent documentation written up via Fiverr…
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I understand your point, for you it is neither advantageous nor possible to drop these pieces before, ok , I just dont want to reprint all the parts , because if take too long i consider printing the burly version .
One more question do the bearings and screws remain the same and the pipes with the same dimensions as the burly version?
Thanks!
I don’t have official details beyond what is in this topic and educated guesses; but the screws are definitely different, the pipes should still work afaik though your dimensions might be slightly different. The bearings are pretty standard, I wouldn’t expect them to change specs, though quantity might.
I am not purposely withholding these details guys, I litterally am not sure if this is final. Until we have a design that is verified to work why would I risk it. If I release some parts list and it is wrong that is nothing but pissed off people. Hopefully in a few more days we will know some more.
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I don’t have a link to tests, but I bought a spool of this Atomic Filament CF-PETG about a month ago, and have to say the stuff is absolutely amazing. You can literally feel the difference even in the pre-print purge strands. I’ve printed some stuff with 6 perimeters and 35% infill, and suspect that infill is probably overkill; it’s truly industrial strength. Prints don’t flex, but also aren’t brittle / won’t break. (I printed a replacement foot for my folding ladder last night – 13 hr print – and tolerances are tight, so I used a rubber mallet to pound it onto my ladder this morning. It didn’t flinch.) You do need a hardened / steel nozzle, and you have to print SLOW, but once dialed in it actually prints easier than most PLA I’ve used. As an added bonus, it’s got a beautiful satin finish. 
(And no, I don’t get a commission or own any stock 
just sharing the goodness.)
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Thanks for the recommendation. I ordered a spool. I use PLA right now, but for some reason my printer somewhere in the middle of a print can start grinding it and the filament gets stuck. I can’t figure out why yet, but maybe PETG is more resistent.
I have been there. It’s one of the reasons I don’t announce anything publicly until I am certain it’s ready, because then people expect it, and you feel pressured to deliver on a timetable that didn’t exist before.
I don’t want a new MPCNC, I want a better MPCNC. If that takes time, it takes time.
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Watch out for regular PETG. It can be too flexible for many’s liking.
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When printing PLA, 9 times out of 10 this is thermal creep. Often caused because the area you have the printer in is too hot and the filament gets just a little too soft where the extruder gears are grabbing it, which makes them slip and chew away a section of the filament. This tends to happen when people put their printer in an enclosure (no escape for the heat) or if its just too hot of a day out. There are other causes (feed speed, extruder gear tension, etc…) but I find its generally thermal creep.
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Thanks for the input on this. I printed recently extra fine 0.06mm per layer and I suspected that the extruder gears just push the filament to hard against the existing print. I test this evening with thicker layers. And it is SoCal, so temperature could play a role also.
Also in Portuguese
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I think 3 perimeters, 5 top and bottom, and 25% gyroid infill, which still looks too dense, but not near as bad as the part I printed at 40%!
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@vicious1’s instructions call for 55% on most parts with a handful at 35% and 65%, how does 25% hold up?
Were these too conservative? Are there going to be new recommendations for Primo?
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I was pretty happy with SimScale (free online FEA) for stress/strain analysis that I did on a glass table top that I had made for my kitchen. In addition to static analysis, it allowed me to put a fat guy in the middle of the table and see the deflection etc. That may inform whether 55% or 25% or other is stiff enough for the loads under consideration for Primo. As with all software, there’s a learning curve, but it works well once you figure it out.
25% gyroid is pretty close to 40% rectilinear. That’s also why mine takes longer to print than Ryan’s.
Yeah I do 60% Gyroid, certainly takes while.
Also check the quality and consistency of your filament. I had one spool of filament a few years ago with an inconsistent diameter – it was mostly fine, but had occasional sections that were just a little too big to fit through the hole in the housing leading into the hot end. (That took a LONG time to troubleshoot…)
It’s probably heat creep, though. 
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I’m totally just going to build the burly and then build the new one cus why not. I’m completely new to this so the learning experience is more important. I’m currently gathering all the parts. I’m so happy I found your site Ryan!
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