I feel like Ryan’s new pic is saying “Have you checked your grub screws!?”
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Yes, where did you download yours from? I can change it.
Yeah I have to change it back I can’t find my own posts. Maybe I can cycle through a few more goofy pics first.
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WELL!!! Have you!?
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I think it was from prusaprinters. Not sure though. 
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I saw a post of someone putting dupont connectors in a tube cap. Anyone know what what I am referring to or possibly have the files for them?
Hi, I’m new to posting here, but I’ve been lurking for a while.
I’m in USA ( and cheap) so I have been waiting for EMT version.
Everything I have read about CNC indicates rigidity is the number one factor and everything else is a distant second (well, within your budget anyway 
).
So 1" (29.5mm) emt sounds great, but with 3/4" (23.5mm) for the Z axis so core is not so distorted/enlarged from other versions, and the Burly tool fittings are still usable.
(I have one 5 ft length of 3/4" for playing with and I’m using an Arduino and 8522 to trundle a Burly truck up and down it. Really surprised just how well truck fitted on with no adjustment.)
TLDR; … I" emt great idea, but keep 3/4" for Z axis (get a $4 5ft piece and use rest for mounting camera or vac hose etc).
Thanks Ryan for all this.
And PLEASE can I get printing soon!
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Worked for me
Considering the nature of the beast I feel like it would be better laying flat. I’m pretty sure I printed mine flat
Sorry. I don’t think my post was clear. It worked for me when I rotated it. Printed with ABS filament.
I doubt it was my caps you saw since I’ve only posted one picture of my machine, but I did model up and use some caps. I found the stainless steel I used for my Primo far more difficult to cut than the conduit I used on my Burly. After cutting it left burrs on the inside of the tubes that I could dull but not eliminate. I was concerned that these burrs would cut my wiring over time. So I designed a cap that would fit over the burrs (left extra room around the rim). Actually I designed four versions…two to just dress the ends of tubes, and two for wires. I used a jewelers screwdriver to gently bend the ears to get past the burrs. They are working fine. They are pretty simple and for 25mm tubing, but I’ve attached a zip file with the .STL files for these caps.MPCNC_Caps.zip (195.3 KB)
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Thanks! I like those and I may use them if I can’t find what I’m looking for. The ones I saw actually had channels to slide connectors into. Dupont plugs at the end of the necessary tubes. So you can just unplug the tubes and disassemble. I want this just for the simplicity of it and I intend on moving in the near future and want to make sure it is not a pain during that process.
It may have been in another thread but I have been in so many threads that I wouldn’t even know where to start.
Instead of going to the trouble of making a cap for the ends of your tubes to protect any burs inside, use a step drill.
If you don’t have one, consider getting one/set to add to your tool box. They come in handy for many projects.
You can get them just about anywhere. Amazon, Harbor Freight, etc. Just for a reference to what they are, using Harborfreight and their sku number of 96275 will putt up a picture of just what a step drill is. You don’t have to have an exact size, which is the beauty of step drills, it will clean the inside of the cut for you.
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What a great idea. I tried using the conduit reamer that I used for my Burly, and it was the wrong size to be helpful. I tried a grinding wheel on my drill, and it took the material off too slowly to be worth anything more than dulling the sharp edges. And I have a couple of step drills bits that I didn’t even think to use.
One print ago this started. Why is it happening? There is nothing under the heatbed. The Z-Axis is still tight (Prusa Mini), so this shouldn’t be the problem either.
Yeah we have one somewhere. I may try to find it. My main goal with the caps is to make things look clean and make it easier to work on later. What if I some how damage a tube or stepper motor. Popping it off and putting on a replacement without having to rewire the planet sounds good to me.
Did you max your mesh leveling? If not on the lcd you can go to settings and increase the number of points it tests before a print. This might solve that. 
Thanks, will try that if it does not improve. I recalibrated it, now the problem seems gone. Somehow was way too close, had to back of by a fair bit with the extruder. The forums mention some problems with the Z heigth varying from time to time depending on temperature. I will see how it goes tomorrow.
Yeah I noticed that but it’s only on the one side so I would definitely run a higher number of mesh points after adjusting your Z hight. I keep mine at the highest it takes a minute or two before each print but I think it’s worth it.
Sorry that I am bothering you guys again, but I tried to put my legs right, the diagonal always comes out 1mm off. Its 1271mm to 1272mm. Is that going to be a problem? Tried for an hour to get this out but I can’t.
1mm is okay.
Try just moving one corner, make sure to loosen the corner clamp screws as well.