Watched a video on the Low Rider and remember this little gem as I am getting into some foamboard cutting and light hobby grade plywood. Was sad to see all the kits sold out and stumbled across this post.
Missed my chance to toss in the name Sexy MPCNC. then the next could be Sexier and the next Sexiest. Ah well, time to get some PETG and wait for downloads.
just a note.
M2.5 is not very common even if you live in a metric country.
I either have to put a special order or buy a set of several sizes in a box to get hold of them.
How many spools will I need for the upgrade?
That fits the micro switches, nothing I can do about a standard part like that. All Rep Rap micro switches use them. You can use #3 x 1/2" wood screws if you want.
2 should get you there.
HAHAHA tried to make lemonade out of lemons. I can’t get inventory as fast as usual…use the time to beta test the crap out of the new machine! The beta testers and I are making fast progress, I have been making tons of super tiny tweaks and changes. I am really starting to get excited.
M2 should work too, right? I can’t find M2 in the local hardware stores but it’s easy to buy online. I’d probably buy the other bolts online too because it can be a lot cheaper. So you don’t need to pay extra shipping for just a couple of M2 bolts.
You can use any rounded head screws (I will be stocking Phillips pan head), but if you choose to use Socket head you should also get washers. Using this terminology, McMaster-Carr
For the bolts I an using and testing with hex head, if you use socket head, again probably should be using washers, but…I am not sure of any clearance issues yet. I don’t think there are this time around but we will have to wait and see. Socket heads and washers are probably a better choice but hex head and no washers are much less expensive and it is not all that big of a difference for the one time assembling it.
They get screwed into a plastic printed hole, 2mm might work with some glue or epoxy but I don’t have any to test so I have to say no.
Right, of course. I was assuming there would be a nut at the other end.
You could drill it through but you will need longer screws.
You’re probably aware of this, but small holes always print smaller than they are designed to be. If I design a 2.5mm hole, it usually ends up being 2.0mm (or less). How much smaller will depend on several things. Since I started using polyholes, I rarely have issues. Basically, you approximate a cylindrical hole with a fairly coarse polyhedron. For a 2.5mm (or 2.25mm or something) I would use only 4 or 5 sides.
Thanks. Yup I over size all printed holes and do a lot of test prints.
Why do you recommend washers? Because of the diameter of the head? Would flanged rounded head screws be the best option for socket head screws then?
Only if you dont use the recommended screws 5m x 30mm pan head Phillips and 5 1/16 hex head or 8mm hex head
I designed it to fit standard Pan heads. If you feel the need to use anything else I can’t say for sure. It is 1000% easier just to use what I designed it for. Not really into checking all varieties to see what will or won’t fit. You can cross check screw standards if you want to use something else.
Since you said standard it might make sense to reference the actual standard ISO code to avoid confusion. From what I can find it’s ISO 7045. I can find many versions conforming to this standard that have PH, PX or Torx drive, so I’m sure I can find one I can live with.
This is certainly not always the case. It depends on the materials, slicer settings, and how tight the tolerances are on your printer. It also depends on if you are printing a hole horizontal, vertical, or a combination of both, as well as on if you are printing with filament or resin. I hate when creators have poorly calibrated equipment and over size the tolerances to fit their machine, and then I have to figureout how to adjust my settings to get what the creators intended end-result sizes are.
You’re quite right, that’s why I said “how much smaller will depend on several things”, only without listing all the things you mentioned 
Polyholes are great exactly because it depends far less on calibration, material, printer quality, etc etc.
I brought it up because if you want a bolt to thread into the plastic, then the hole needs to be quite accurate. Too small and it won’t thread, too large and it will be impossible to screw it in. You can’t just use a drill to widen the hole, because common drill sizes will make the hole too large. If a bolt goes through a hole and has a nut on the other side, you don’t have these issues.
Yeah, I only did it because micro switches are extremely low load.
Guess you didn’t see me set mine up the first time huh?