No. I am not sure yet how far you can push it. The tubes to not need to be inserted all the way but the new corners are significantly wider, also a larger footprint, but the new center should give a little extra room, Where it all shakes out…we’ll have to wait and see. Best to wait for the beta test to finish and I will have hard numbers.
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I just finished printing my Burly parts and ordered the kit of hardware, then saw this…
If it makes you feel better, I have a low rider v1. And it is still working well. Get some miles on this machine, and if you think it is worth it, replace the parts with the new version later. Or wait a little longer and there will be a newer version.
Also, there’s no guarantee this version will be better or out anytime soon.
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There are bound to be some issues with your first build, and it would be easier to troubleshoot if you were using a stable version that has been put through its paces for a few years, and people have more experience with.
Build it, get it working and calibrated, understand how it operates and what its limitations are, and while you are doing this, early adopters will be printing the new parts and upgrading to the new build, ironing out any issues; paving the way for your smooth transition later.
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Hey Ryan - in the new design files, would it be possible to make the captive nuts on items like the feet either fully captive or not at all captive. The “half captive” version does not work well if the nylock nuts are a little tight, and because of the periphery of plastic, it’s hard to get a small socket or even pliers on the nuts. Jamming a screwdriver between the nut and the plastic works, but I have palm scars (MPCNC stigmata) that testify that this is a bad idea too.
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The nuts that are captive are fully (well mostly fully captured). The new instructions are full of warnings to also thread your lock nuts at least once outside the build to loosed them up.
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All my thumbs up for no catch and release nut traps. Captive nuts need 4/6 sides minimum to work well, in my experience.
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So guys, what about the hardware? If I want to build one, can I purchase the current hardware kit or there will be released a new one ?
(Unfortunately I’ve printed all the parts for the future “old version”, and I haven’t bought pipes and hardware yet)
What do you advice me? Wait for the new release or…
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Just my opinion but given you’ve already printed all the parts for the future “old version” and it’s hardly an incapable dud of a machine, I’d go ahead and build it. After using it for a while you’ll likely have some ‘I wish I’d done’ thats in mind and want to make changes be they bigger, smaller, wiring done differently, etc. or you may even decide a Low Rider would suit you better and you can proceed from there.
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Hardware is going to almost identical, save for a few bolts and screws. Same conduit/tubing, same router/spindle, same motors, same belts, same controller. The change is a plastic one only.
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When is the new line drawing coming out? I need more to plot.
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Jeffeb3:
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Can I start buying nuts and bolts for the new machine in advance? Is it looking like M4 with nyloc in place of #6? What length and approximately how many?
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M5x30 with lock nuts - 65ish
M8x40 (5/16"x1.5) with nuts. -44
M2.5x12 x8 if you use endstops
M3x10 x24
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I will have these available shortly if you have a hard time getting them. Trying to get a upgrade pack ready for the day of release of the 25.4.
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It’s around 20$ from bolt depot for the metric fasteners. You’ll have some leftovers.
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Do you have any more teaser photos? 
Button head or cap head?
Button head screws, hex bolts. Need them to be low profile, caps stick up too far.
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Ah man! I printed all my parts last year. I still want to build it. Will parts kit be available or should I just try to built up my own from the list?