Looks like you went the zip tie route to hold it on. I drilled a hole in the aluminum and a smaller hole in the middle of bracket. Then I threaded a m4 bolt directly into the plastic.
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I’ve now had this same thing happen on 2 attempts at printing the core, usually 12 hours in. Is the motor temperature the most likely cause? My Y axis motor is at the bottom of the printer under the heated build plate. Is there a good way to cool that? I will admit the room the printer is in is getting warm. Would getting the room cooler be sufficient?
Most likely the problem is with driver overheating.
Open box and check if coolers are clean, try to cool drivers more or move printer to colder area.
As for motor side, plase check driver voltage and set them at proper voltage (regarding which driver you have - you can fint that on youtube). Motors will not overheat if you have voltage set corectly.
Use the 2.11mm wall instead of the 2.77mm, it should be lighter and cheaper and the extra thickness doesn’t add all that much rigidity. For 100€ I’d likely hold out for the 25mm version. There are enough 1" builds that I expect Ryan will be comfortable enough to release the next size soon.
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So print the parts in PLA or ABS?
PLA. ABS is too flexible.
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thx for fast replay
I don’t know, took 17 minutes…
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haha, I think we can call that fast:P
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Oooh, I like your saw! I’ll borrow precisely the same from my father-in-law. I struggled alot with cutting the tubes for my first burley, just using an angle grinder. But then I realized that it doesn’t matter that much. But then again, when I now have access to such a saw, I’ll use it for sure 
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A little muscle and persistence and I was able to cut my pipes fairly well with one of these pipe cutters. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-1-125-in-Multipurpose-Pipe-Cutter/1000668033
I used a Miter jig and a sawsall with a metal cutting bit.
Like @turbinbjorn said, it doesn’t have to be perfect… well. the legs do. But you can use a grinder with a sanding disk to fix that after getting everything rough cut.
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That made me chuckle…
@dlindval same
RIP Core, I think it was my jank printer wiring (cables a tiny bit short because of where the control box is right now). Round 2, start!!
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Oops replied too soon, wish there was a way to use it but it moved a bearing spot and almost cut it in half.
Oh no. Another one for the failed core print gallery. Who was it Here collecting pics of them?
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Hahaha didnt know someone was. it literally only screwed up ONE bearing spot, and fairly certain it was my fault as I said.
Is that a CR10S?? do you have braces for the Z?
When I first got my CR10S-pro I couldn’t print anything higher the 200mm without a layer shift. I added a threaded rod brace on each side of the Z extruded aluminum and that fixed my problem.
I honestly think that most issue with the core is because not everyone has printed tall prints and the Z on most printers are not sturdy or rigid as we think.
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