yep it is
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Cheaped out and went with the Sunsu CF.
In my haste to disassemble my old machines and get ready for the Primo, I forgot to cut my Lowrider2 611 plate, but the rest is good to go.
The Sunsu is 1kg, so I have enough to print the baseplate and play around in the garage while the core is printing.
Hopefully, it goes ok.
I’m holding you responsible.
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PETG is more flexible than pla. My petg parts were printed with 4 perimeters and were still flexible. I upped them to 5 or 6. Primo is all pla now though.
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So how exact do the cuts have to be…hand sawing is not the easiest lol. Even used the hose clamp trick. Its suppose to be 34.5 (y Gantry). do I just use this piece for 34.25 (x Gantry) and take it down with the bench grinder.
Edit: the tape measure shifted a bit was kind of hard taken a pick but it’s off by about 1/32 maybe a little more
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Yeah at 90% infill, 6 solid top and bottom and 6 walls, my 611 plate bowed so badly, it was a joke.
Went ahead and ordered CF PLA for the core. Rest of my Primo parts seem ok in PETG.
I haven’t built one. But after proof reading the instructions I think the most critical lengths are the feet. The X and Y parts are on long grips so 1/32" shouldn’t be a problem. But maybe someone that has built it would know better.
You can also cut a little wide of the line and then trim it up with a belt grinder or a file and a ton of patience.
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Right when I was ready to start printing the Primo in PLA, I couldn’t make a good print to save my life. I tightened things (belts, bolts) and rebuilt the hot end (heat break, heater core, thermistor, nozzle). First 5 prints had a nozzle/hot end plug after about an hour. I changed the retraction settings back to 0.5mm down from 2mm. Now it is printing beautifully. Prusa MK2
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I used CF PLA from amazon and they are still in stock
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0837QMVWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Good to know.
The new mk3s firmware screwed up belt status. I spent a day over tightening everything until it was about to snap, finally I realized it was software.
Plus side, if prints don’t go well, belts are so dialed in, that I can rule them out, immediately.
I do have some old pla settings with higher ands faster retraction, but you’re saying you went lower. I’ll keep that in mind if I have issues.
I know what the problem is. My textured PEI sheet. I just love it so much. Spring steel should be easier.
Although, with CF, it looks like, from my limited, after the fact, research, that I need to use .5mm+ nozzle size and hardened steel; or a disposable nozzle. Luckily, all of my .5mm nozzles were super cheap.
Thanks! I went ahead and ordered the Sunsu, earlier.
You can be off a lot. I messed up the placement of my feet in one axis and decided to live with it.
I think an error of 1/2" is fine and 1" would be ok too. I’d bet even 1.5" (centered so 0.75" each end) is probably ok.
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Just realized you are talking about the gantry rails, in which case I’d say 1/2 inch (0.25 inch each end) is about the limit I’d feel comfortable with.
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That sounds reasonable.
I wish I had left that much out on the gantry it would be easy to make a mount for the cable chain or for the measuring tape.
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You could mount the other brother Daryl
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I erred on the side of long and cut on the outside of the sharpie line.
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Can you tell me the print parameters for the 0.5mm nozzle?
Feedrate 38mm/s
Layerheight?
Quality?
Etc.
Thanks for your awesome work
I did the same as Jamie, I have probably a half inch of plastic showing on one side at the corners. As long as your tubes are solidly captured, a little off isn’t going to hurt anything.
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Thanks everyone for the input. Guess I won’t stress it to much then. I held off making any more cuts to see what everyone had to say. Thanks again!
Where will the tool mount be posted Ryan? Thingiverse. or other?