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Lr3 up and running, just adjusting limit switched. Been reading the forum to better understand setup which led me to checking m119. My z2 max is always triggered even when unplugged. Can someone guide me on how to fix this or directions to a post already addressing this tried searching by keywords but no luck on my own. Thanks in advance.
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Hmm, maybe you programmed your endstops to be normally open? Then it would trigger if it wasn’t there.
/Edit: Dan is right, I mixed it up. 
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Since we wire the endstops as normally closed, triggered is open circuit. Unplugged is open circuit, therefore unplugged is triggered.
Probably means that the wiring for your end stop is either wrong, or the wire is damaged. You can check if it is the board by putting a jumper on the end stop connection between signal and ground. If it then reads as open, the problem os a broken wire, bad switch or incorrectly wired switch.
You can see if the switch is wired NO if it reads as open if you press the switch. If you wired the wires to NO and NC, then it will always read triggered though. Anyway that should let you track down the problem to the wires/switch or the firmware/board
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Thank you! Appears to be a bad wire/ wired incorrectly. Checking connections now.
Yep bad wiring got it fixed now.
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So i am doing the initial squaring and working on the crown test. I am having trouble understanding the instructions. Kinda just gave up on the squaring for now and working on the crown. If i understand correctly based on this thread (Z - axis unstoppable, out of control - #23 by martin001), when i load the gcode to repetier add g92 x0 y0 z0 to the code and should set home at current location. Right?
It will do that at the machine, but Repetier host might not know it. If you follow that with a G0 X0 Y0 Z0 then it should work. (The machine should not move.)
The test crown, Has that built it so the best thing to do is start with the premade gcode that link takes you to, move the head to where you want it to start, with the head just above the paper, and then run the file.
The premade file resets the coordinates and move down 1mm to draw.
If that works great then try to replicate it yourself, and that includes setting up your starting gcode (G92…etc)
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Ok I see my mistake i used the crown vector link below which is the problem. It does not have it built in.
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1st crown test. Failed to rcheck level after relocating my table in the garage and doing some clean up. Right side was low by about 1/2". Haven’t redid the test yet after leveling. Weekly rotations to spend time with my gf and not having my trailer ready just yet for transportation is slowing progress but i am so excited. In the meantime just trying to learn more beginner stuff.
Feeds and speeds, materials prep(use of oramask), bits (mainly doing engraving), design and do much more to learn. Don’t think this could be possible for me to find a new passion without V1 engineering and the affordability and just taking the dive to learn something new. So very much appreciative.
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Biggest conflict I have just getting into woodworking and the world of being a craftsman is imperial vs metric and I loved math, love numbers, but do not want to go back to school to learn the metric system lol.
Edit: Good to know I dont have to change. Decimal inch is better!.
I use onshape for cad (they have a free for hobbyist license). It will convert for you. If you type “0.75in” in a box or “19mm” in a box, it will convert it for you.
There are advantages of both systems. Learning a little metric won’t kill you. You don’t need to go to school to learn there are 10mm in a cm and 1000mm in 1m. That is literally all you need in woodworking.
You can also use inches in Estlcam windows, and still have it spit out gcode in mm. I would not recommend using imperial in gcode. It just don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze.
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That’s one of the funniest sayings I’ve ever heard. 
Going to use that a lot!
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One tab that is always open for me on chrome. Google mm to inches lol.
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I usually just have a calculator app up and enter 25.4 a lot.
Inches × 25.4 = mm
mm ÷ 25.4 = inches
The only bad part converting to inches is it doesn’t give you fractions.
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I use inches in gcode just to be that guy, lol. Every post processor I use needs to have the decimal precision fixed because ijk moves break.
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I am using Carveco (trial subscription) as leaning towards that for future use, and as I am learning researching feed and plunge rate I had a question. Is it accurate to say plunge rate is normally half feed rate. Also when deciding feed rate using a chip load calculator due to the chipload being different industrial vs manufacturing . Its best to take the average of both (industry + manufacturers)/2 for a more accurate chipload. Using
Also have Makita router dial set to 2.5/16500 rpm
Perform a test cut and after check 5-10 mins temp of router should be warm to touch not to hot. Also look for chips not fine particles
Chatter or RMP Drop= too fast feed rate or too low rpm
High pitch sound= low feed rate or too high rmp
My understanding of this is based on a video from Timberfalls Beginners Guide To Feeds Speeds & Chiploads - YouTube
Does this look right?
Doing so much outside reading/watching and being inpatient skipped over the Milling Basics - V1 Engineering Documentation will probably answer my questions.
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Think I have a better understanding of everything. What is normal thickness for spoilboard?
Just needing to level my Z then ready to start cutting.
If I understand correctly take the average X-Min Z:124.4575 & X-Max Z:124.50125 subtract those 2 difference= 0.04375 then enter M666 Z 0.04375, M500 while it is at X-min since that moved the farthest. Test again and make further adjustments if needed?
Round up a little bit and remember it might actually be negative.
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