Thanks so much! Now to see what piece of wood will fall victim to stitch
I just had an idea for using cheap dollar store flashlights (if there are such) with a shadow casting part attached to / over the lens somehow to make an affordable gift. Pondering.
Definitely a great idea. I also considering doing acrylic inlays with different colors. Seen a carbide 3D video do something similar but just plain acrylic was used and changed the light colors. Now pondering if i did both the same color how much it would pop.
3 Likes
I’m not lazy I swear but reading up on workspace/machine coordinates for setting up tool changes and looking for the best explanation or even better if someone made a video. My understanding is when changing tools you’re going to lose steps due to physically moving the machine. Read the milling basics. I have read multiple threads and 200+ comments and I’m still a bit confused or unsure if I properly understand. Also found this link that Ryan posted.
This may also be helpful:
https://www.mmsonline.com/articles/g28-versus-g53
If my understanding is correct G53 is another form of G28. G54/G55+ (9 workspace in total?) are work space coordinates. So when you go to start a Job you can set home outside of material to use that for tool change. Then switch over to G54 workspace coordinates and jog to desired start position. When running the job and its times for a tool change. Run G53 which will return you to home, change tool and switch back G54 to get back to desired positions and resume job. Is that understanding correct. Can someone provide an example gcode for this?
I have never used workspaces.
Technically, when you boot up you are in a workspace…but you never have to deal with it at all.
You are kinda asking a broad question. So I will assume you just fell down the wrong rabbit hole. For tool changes you just pause, change the tool, reprobe the Z, unpause. Just as shown in the milling basics page.
That is just the overview. Best to start without a tool change, once that all makes sense we can help you change a tool.
No, not usually.
2 Likes
Hoping that is the case lol. So much info out there and trying to digest and understand all of it at times can be a huge hassel. I am a simple person and can do without tool changes. Just looking into doing some v bit inlays in the future which may require tool changes and afraid of messing something up in the process but practice makes perfect.
Make sure to learn all the basics first. Inlays are probably the most precise type of work we can do. So let that be your goal but make sure to get lots of regular cut and carve time in first.
*edited for more concise language.
Hrmmm… I’d argue that they are more about precision… You can shift around the mating parts if they don’t accurately line up, but they need to precisely fit together. But I’m being pedantic. Inlays are at the top of the learning curve for what we do with hobby level CNC machines. The only thing that might come close is milling PCBs.
Correct, let me change that word.
I’ve done both MDF and Maple. @kvcummins is spot on with the seal coat before the black paint. Especially on the MDF, but it also helps to strengthen the ridges so they don’t break off during sanding.
I plan on trying the epoxy as well, but have had “other things“ keeping me busy.
1 Like
This is really only a problem for me when the motors turn off (I don’t usually do that, but I’ve had gcode gone awry.) I picked up a tip on the forums. If you note the X and Y coords where you reset it to the origin of the workpiece, you can re-home and move back to that spot, then reset the origin again. It greatly depends on how precise the work you’re doing is, but I’ve had that trick come in handy.
So (at least for X and Y) home - move to workpiece origin - write down coordinates - reset to 0,0 - probe Z - start job. If you feel the router move during the tool change just : home - move to coordinates - reset to 0,0 - probe Z - continue job. Its worked for me. I’m actually interested if anyone has suggestions on how to simplify that process.
I do want to understand the coordinate system at some point when I have the mental energy.
If anyone has a link to an explainer video it would be greatly appreciated. I’ve read the documentation but could use a little help with understanding practical use.
1 Like
That same thing has worked great for me. Here’s one way that I have simplified it. I originally created this for when working with cuts on full sheets. I have since realized it can be used for other cuts too.
I created some GCode files on my SD card to be used as a kind of “macro” approach. I did this because I wanted macros, but did not ever take time to figure out how to reprogram the Marlin firmware on the SKR to get macros there.
I created 4 different GCode files for probing.
-
One is based on moving from the machine’s 0,0 home to the very corner of a full MDF 49x97 sheet, aligned perfectly with my spoil board, which is also a full 49x97 sheet. It moves to that corner spot, sets the work origin as 0,0 there, and then moves inward by a distance of x150 and y150, and then starts the Z probing sequence, down to my homemade “tiny touch plate.”
-
Another is based on moving from the machine’s 0,0 home to the very corner of a full plywood 48x96 sheet, placed at exactly 1/2" inward from the edges of my spoil board (a full 49x97 sheet). It moves to that corner spot, sets the work origin as 0,0 there, and then moves inward by a distance of x150 and y150, and then starts the Z probing sequence, down to my homemade “tiny touch plate.”
-
The third assumes I have manually moved the machine to where I would like a work origin set, and immediately sets the work origin as 0,0 there, and then moves inward by a distance of x150 and y150, and then starts the Z probing sequence, down to my homemade “tiny touch plate.”
-
The fourth assumes I have a work origin already set, and I don’t want to change it. It does not set any 0,0, but simply moves inward by a distance of x150 and y150, and then starts the Z probing sequence, down to my homemade “tiny touch plate.”
HOW TO USE the first two…
Whenever I create vectors for cutting on MDF, I set them on a 49x97 rectangle, and output that as part of the vector file (SVG or DXF). Then in ESTLcam, that rectangle means I can easily get to a 0,0 point mutually shared between the cut job and the machine’s work origin.
For vectors for a cut job on sheet goods that are 48x96, I use a rectangle of that size.
It can be used for cuts on partial sheets, by simply positioning the partial sheet where its near corner (x-min and y-min corner) aligns with the near edges of the spoil board (for #1), or 1/2" inward from there (for #2).
This works well for me on a wide variety of cut jobs. I can share the GCode files if anyone wants them.
Thank you! This is a possible solution for me. I’ve designed the table with a drop area, where I intend to have options like a rotary axis, or other jigs/fixtures. I could create macros that automatically move to the origin for that jig and reset the coords in a repeatable fashion.
I sincerely appreciate the explanation.
1 Like
That is where a workspace would normally come in handy. When you have fixtures that do not move, instead of driving to a specif location and resetting the 0,0 you can just change to that workspace. At the same time making a simple gcode to run to move the that space and rest the coordinates is just the same. I use something similar to park mine, macro, gcode, or workspace, same end result.
1 Like
Rabbit hole leading somewhere and getting new guides and tips along the way.
1 Like
Please take note that I have my X and Y swapped, so you probably will need to edit the axes mentions accordingly.
Currently working on some christmas laterns. Unsure if I want to do anything for Thanksgiving. Considered doing some happy Thanksgiving signs but don’t really see many people decorating for Thanksgiving in my area.
Also considering building a vaccum table once I move hopefully in the next couple of months and can build my full size table. Found this build utilizing a shop vac. Will make some modifications and also wondering if I built the full sheet capable torsion box what would be the best positioning/point to run the pvc for hold down.
So black friday happened and i bought a Elegoo neptune 4 pro 3d printer. Excited to be able to make some upgrades and accessories for my cnc. Also may have broken my x belt holder which still works thanks to CA glue but definitely needs to be replaced. Will also probably offer printing to people in Tx in the dfw area once I get my feet wet.
3 Likes