New LR3 Build in Chicago Burbs

I am recently retired and have finally found the time to build my LR3.
I purchased my LR3 parts about 2+ years ago.
While I am now retired, I have started the build per the documentation.
The plan is a boot-strap build for a 4’ X 8’ table.
What is the best / recommended table allowing full sheet cuts?
What length do I need to cut the beam EMT for full width? I have seen the calculator and am lost.

Thanks in advanced and I am very open to all opinions and options (keeping monies in mind).
Bob

2 Likes

For a full 4ft (1220mm ) usable x axis you would need: 1400mm tubes, and the struts
If you already have the printed parts go for it, if bot better build the lr4

I have my LR3 built for bootstrapping.

The crown came out as expected.

The SKR pro is running 2.1.1 firmware. Is this the current? If not, what firmware do I need?

I am currently testing to make the gantry struts before moving on to making the table struts (wood rails).

Also, does V1E still sell the Wifi card for this controller? I cannot locate it on the web site.

2 Likes

I love it!!!

yup, tried and true. No need to change.

No I had a few but at the time it was not a big seller. It takes a little work to make it work so I think that scared a few people off. The screen is simple, we have a wifi board now and some people are putting wired controllers back on them. Go figure.

The build looks great I love seeing it on the floor. To help with accuracy make sure that vac hose has lots of slack, and you should really cable tie it to the core so it is not pulling on the front of the core.

Thank you.

I have the vac house cable tided to the power cable on the router mount and testing has shown no stress on the gantry.

Can you recommend the wifi card I should get? I am hoping to use the wireless to run the CNC from Fusion.

Here is a video while testing the hose and power cables.

Gantry Testing

You can’t run it from fusion directly, no matter what. You will always need to export your file and get it to the router. From there the controls will be on the lcd like you have, or on a wifi connected device using the webui from esp3d.

On my earlier 3D printers I used a wifi enabled SDCard - that might be easier to setup than an esp01 wifi addon.

Another option is connecting a raspberry pi to your controller and running octopi - the pi connects to your wifi and you can transfer files to if from your fusion pc. Found this on a quick search which is a pretty concise summary.

It is an ESP01S. It has an 8.pin (4×2) header to connect to the SKR Pro 1.2 or the TFT35 screen. (I was an early adopter, and mine is plugged into the screen instead of the board.) It’s not difficult to program/set up. The only difference with where it’s plugged in is which SD Card/USB port it can read/write files to. The earlier firmware used the screen’s so I plugged mine in there as the most common use case for me was to use wifi to transfer gcode files to the card. I did the same for the router and for the MP3DPv3 that also used an SKR Pro with the TFT35. Current firmware uses the SD card on board the SKR Pro, so that’s where it should be installed now.

The ESP01S should be available for cheap, less than $10. You may also need an FTDI USB to serial interface for programming, but it may also be possible through the SKR. I can’t be sure as I used a USB to serial adapter, which is also inexpensive.

Thanks for all the responses!

My Pi seems to be running CNCjs 1.9.23. It also shows there is an available update to 1.10.5.

I asked because when I do to zero out any of the work positions, it errors with unknown command: G10 L20 P1 X0

Also, I am not real sure how to update this if I do need the update.

Not only can I not zero out work positions, how can I use the touch plate as it stops on the plate…..