YANDDONG would make pretty much any cable on demand in small numbers. The ‘20AWG 20CM GX16 kk 2.54 KF2510 Butt Joint 2/3/4/5/6/7/8/9/10 Pins Waterproof Aviation Plug Socket Connector Wire Cable’ was a link they sent after enquiring, but were also making custom links as I went. Reply was within minutes and the cables arrived in about 2-3 weeks to Australia.
I ended up getting a box from Jaycar to fit it all in. Tight but it works ok. I needed to 3d print some offsets from the base to screw it ddown.
Here’s the finished product. Haven’t rewired the end stops (black and red) as I was mostly concerned about shorting out the motors. Maybe will get some extensions for those just to keep it consistent.
I would look at putting some vent holes and a fan into that enclosure. Once it starts getting warm again that box will heat up pretty quick and could over heat your board, causing missed steps and other issues.
So I’ve finally bugged the neighbours enough that I’m making a soundproof box for the MPCNC.
I’ve now made an enormous wheeled stand for it, and am in the process of making the box.
The plan is to enclose 900w x 900d x 700h, and it will be lined with gyprock (plasterboard) then rockwool then another layer of gyprock. Door will be similar, but with a perspex window. Haven’t quite worked out the door sealing yet.
wheely base is done. it’s just holding my woodpile and the disconnected primo right now.
i’ll be mounting something on the top either a board or some more 90x35 to support the soundproof box.
Very nice! I’m thinking about doing something like that under a bench top. I’m curious how much it cuts down the actual noise. It’s been ok for now, but don’t need a noise complaint from the HOA.
i don’t want to speak too soon before the door is fitted but it’s noticeably quieter inside the enclosure if you put your head in. like your ears are blocked. it’s really weird. it’s definitely a bit of an experiment to see how quiet i can make it but i’ll run some tests and post results!
In my neverending quest for the perfect clamping solution, I’ve decided to try out some powertec t track kit. Mostly because I could get them next day on prime - otherwise I’d probably go the cheap option and hit up aliexpress.
Here’s where we’re at. Spoil board redone, cnc carved tracks, and I need to trim out the corners to get where the bit couldnt catch.
Soundproof box is going very well. There’s still some work to do on that, some additional rubber seals around the door frame and dust collection will be next on the hitlist. So far the majority of carves are quiet enough to not disturb anyone (ie barely noticeable), however these carves on plywood were noisier than I’d like.
I took the opportunity to overhaul the primo a little. I raised it 2cm so I have more room for big jobs, replaced two of the parts on the legs that had cracked, replaced the makita holder and reworked some of the belts and wiring. First time it’s had a service since I built it and nothing really major seems out of place.
We all are… I have yet to find the ideal solution. I had inserts, tracks around the spoilboard, a vacuum table (which only works if there aren’t too many groves in the board) etc… I didn’t try the one where you have plastic inserts and different wooden swivel thingies.
Yeah my original plan was to use the dog holes for camber clamps, but it was terrible. The dog holes were either too tight or too loose and I just never got a snug fit that held well enough that I could trust it.
I ended up using strong double sided tape for most of my carves. It worked perfectly, but theres ever so small amount of flex in it and it wasn’t particularly accurate when lining up material square. Plus it added an extra 5-10 minutes of messing around when I wanted to do a quick carve.
The t track is looking perfect so far and I have some small stops that will hopefully do most of the squaring for me. These guys: POWERTEC-Universal Short Stop for T-Track System with Wing Knobs, 4PK | Woodwork T Track & T-Track Accessories Wholesaler
