I have an e3 pro as well. Stock is good (mine is not anymore) but I think there are 2 mods worth the effort by far. First is the petsfang bullseye cooling mod (free 3d print and uses all stock parts) because it helps enormously with bridging and curling. The other is adding a Bltouch (or 3dtouch) for auto bed leveling because it works amazing you set it up once and then never have to worry about your first layer again(well almost) so it just drastically improves the ease of use. Also if your looking for a silent board, I would recommend the e3 mini, it’s a drop in replacement for the stick board but has more processing power, silent steppers, a built in input for the bltouch, works well and is well supported by the creality community. 
sorry for the tangent.
@Atom thanks.
The tangent is fine.
I’m done for the day in a little bit so lunch is on the agenda, then I’m going to take a few minutes and see if I can find my cutoff wheels for my die grinder to cut the tubing. I printed a thing to hold a die grinder and the tubing so am looking to give it a try. I figure it’ll be a good way to see if I can get nice square cuts as I’d rather not use a hack saw or my big metal chop saw.
As for the 3 Pro I really like it except for noise. Initially it wasn’t an issue but it gets old with it being behind my desk. So the quiet board is high on the list of things to do.
I’m not sure if I really need the BLtouch as the springs have really helped. But we will see. I may get it after the board. As for as other mods, the only thing I can think of is the covers for the back of the board that some print to give it a better fit and finish and some covers for the channel. Otherwise beyond initial learning it’s been great.
@B-26 most places seem to be shipping faster. So we will see.
My comment was more of how fast Ryan processes the order and gets it out, then who he uses as once it’s picked up it’s out of his control. Again I’ve heard nothing negative so I expect he does a good job of getting things out in a reasonable time.
Oh, Ryan’s great with processing orders, but back in January I had something sent First Class to me from MI to NC that took over 3 weeks to get to me. 
@B-26 wow. I’m glad to hear he’s good with shipping things out fast. Like I said, I haven’t heard anything bad so I figured as much. But confirmation helps.
I think earlier in this build account I posted about how bad my mail delivery person is. She won’t load packages of filament onto her little truck and deliver it to my house.
My first order she put a thing in my box saying I wasn’t home and had to pick it up at the PO. The second time she didn’t even do that. Since I knew it was coming as it was part of an exchange, I simply went to the PO the day it was expected and it was there. Needless to say I’m not happy with her, but know how lazy she is. As does the other folks in the PO, but they could only suggest I make a complaint. Something they kept suggesting 
Ryan uses priority mail too, which takes precedence over first class.
@tfaigle RE: my 2 cents on a controller
I’m a first time MPCNC builder and I purchased the SKR kit from V1 mainly for the dual setup, TFT & future expandability.
Setup has been really easy. I just loaded the latest FW on the SD to update and was good to go. No need to jack with config files, compiling or flashing from a computer to get going. I do plan to mess with that down the road but for now I can play with it as is.
It is pretty early in my journey to make a definitive statement but it has worked really well so far.
@Bigchepin I’m glad to hear that. Please keep us posted. And I can’t wait to see what you make with your MPCNC.
So getting back to the build.
I decided to look one last place for cutoff wheels I know I have.
And BINGO, found them!
They were in a toolbox I was going to use for welding stuff.
So 3D printed a holder/conduit cutting jig for one of my cheapo HF 4” Angle Grinders. Gotta love a $10 or $11 tool that you don’t care about. Normally I’m a tool snob but these things are just so handy and cheap, it’s nice to have a flap wheel on one, a cutoff on another and a grinding wheel on another! Plus they’re so light compared to a DeWalt or Bosh.
Anyway mounted the grinder, put a thin cutoff wheel in and got it all on the workbench. So as soon as I recover from last weeks intensity I’ll start cutting all of the MFT!
So slow progress but progress. And saved a few bucks!
It’s always in the last place you look (but maybe that is because after you find it you stop looking??)
@Atom I’ve heard that. Although I do wonder how many people keep looking so it won’t be the last place!
On a serious note, it was nice to find them. I don’t mind buying more as they’re not that expensive but if I don’t have to, I’d rather spend money on a more immediate need. Oh say a controller board and the rest of the parts I need.
So I cut the conduit with the grinder and jig I got off of Thingiverse. To say I’m not impressed is being kind. I got it to cut predictably after a few cuts but not after some frustration.
If I had to do it over, I just would have used a hack saw.
So a question. How square and accurate do the pipes have to be? I have a couple that my ADD is saying aren’t great. But the frugal me says keep them if they will work.
None of them really matter except the feet if you have more than minimal height.
@Tokoloshe thanks
I thought that was the case. But want to be sure.
It seems to me having everything square and plumb in the build are the most important things. But I just wanted to be sure.
The printed pieces will hold them square. I free- hand cut all mine with an angle grinder and debarred them on a bench grinder. While the cuts are certainly not perfectly square I don’t believe the cut quality has had any negative effect on the squareness or accuracy of my machine.
@ttraband thanks. I’m not going to worry about them. I cleaned up and squared them the best I can. So I’m just going to go with what I have. If I have any issues, I’ll just get a few more pieces of conduit and try again.
I should get my stepper motors today. So assembly this week may be a huge possibility!
I am New to the cnc world, Im using SKR pro and found it really easy to setup with dual endstops. I’m not sure why it’s recommended to start without dual endstops if your new…I think if someone can build the cnc and run the required software, they should be able to setup dual endstops.
It was also not hard to add a laser to the SKR Pro. I can’t speak at all for the other board.
It’s probably because the attention span of many is so limited that most people can’t follow directions.
You clearly have an ability to read and understand, sadly it’s a dying skill. Just look at most FB “discussions”.
Btw I appreciate your input as I’m getting ready to assemble things this week. After that, I’ll be ordering all of the rest of the things I need to get It working.
I’m excited as this was planned to be a long learning journey and so far it’s going faster than planned and I’m learning more than I expected in the short time!
I used a cnc shield I had in my “spare parts box” that only supports 3 drivers, otherwise I would have gone for the dual endstops as well.
To be clear, most will recommend using the duel endstop wiring if your board supports at least 5 stepper drivers. It is recommended to not use the duel endstops themselves if your new to cnc. This is because learning to used endstops (working with two different coordinate positions) can be tricky and adds to the already sharp learning curve. So it’s not about learning how to set them up as much as it’s about learning how to use them properly. Especially when they are not needed for the machine to run.