Right on. Its a good feeling when stuff fits! I checked for fitment as soon as my feet were done
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@Chaos that was my plan. But I enjoyed printing parts, and I just didn’t have much time to get the conduit until now. So plans changed. Thankfully they fit perfectly.
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So I get an email from MicroCenter that my order is going to ship. So that’s an improvement over my last order. I have no clue when it will arrive, but at least I’ll be getting more filament!
In the mean time, I’m 3D printing some things to organize the shop. Yesterday I picked up a closeout tool chest at Lowes that I’ll use to put some of my odd and end tools in while I figure out how I want things in the future. Plus one can’t have too much tool storage!
Another step closer. I ordered the bearings!
Also just ordered the hardware (aka nuts and bolts) from Boltdepot. So my budget for this pay period of spendable money is done 
The fun will be that the filament oder is suppose to arrive on Saturday. The bearings are suppose to show up tomorrow. I’m betting that the hardware show up before the filament!
Now to figure out what else I need for next pay period. I know I need a lead screw, coupler, and the electronics. I also need connectors, wire and a crimper. Oh and the motors of course.
Edit 9 am ET Wednesday 3/3/21: Got an email from Bolt Depot that my order is scheduled to be here Friday! Can’t wait to see what all the nuts and bolts look like. I ordered lots of 100, so I’ll have extras for other projects.
I thought I’d total up what I’ve spent so far:
1 Roll Blue PLA+ $18.99 (includes mistakes and learning)
1 roll Blue PLA+. $18.99
1 roll Black PLA+. 18.99
tax 3.02
------------------------------
$59.99
100 skate bearings $22
Hardware $66.06
EMT Pipe
$148.05 so far
I know this includes extra hardware and extra filament but I’m including it as this project was for learning and It’s nice to show a worse case.
Well Micro Center continues to drive me nuts. I went out to walk the dog and I come back and a box of filament is on my front step. So I’m happy about that.
Now back to printing!
So all errors/extra prints and fails, etc. My print time for all of the “A” parts when this completes correctly will be as such:
Total Print Time (minutes) 9107
Total Print Time (hours) 151.8
Total Print Time (Days) 6.32
So it seems that today is a big days for MPCNC stuff. The Big Brown Truck just arrived and brought the bearings!
Another step closer. Now to figure out the purchases for the next pay periods,
Grrr
And another step back
I received my filament but the package was open and it was the wrong size. Worse it had stickers on it like it was a return. And no silica in it.
MicroCenter is giving me a credit, and doing an RMA to send it back. So that’s good. But it’s annoying none the less.
So Black prints delayed 
So with all the problems I’ve had with Black filament I decided to go with Red for the B parts. Although I think I’ll go with Black for the Core.
I’m not thrilled with the Red Inland PLA filament. I like the PLA+ a lot better. But it’s ok. So started printing the B parts today in Red.
Also part of my Bolt Depot order came in. And I’ll post update pics when I get the rest.
I’m starting to think of how to build the table for this, and the spoil board. So comments, suggestions, etc are most welcome.
And…
I want a 24" x 24" work area. so do I put that in the app to figure out the pipe size.
And how tall should I make the legs? My initial thought was 6" but for rigidity I’ve seen less, but haven’t seen a recommended length. (excuse me if I’ve missed it). So any suggestions? 4"?
hey Tom, Im still learning too so dont quote my numbers. But if you put your wanted workspace size in the calculator, the pipe length should calculate automatically below for you.
As far as the Z height I have heard that Ryan recommends 81mm or 3.25 inches, 4" can be considered tall and starts to affect rigidity. I am doing a Z height of 3.5".
Because a height of 3.5" isnt much room, I am going to make the top of my spoil board flush with the bottom of the feet so I dont loose any Z travel.
Again, I am still learning so take what I say with a grain of salt. 
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I used Ryan’s default of 81mm of Z travel in the calculator and built a manual drop table to put thicker material on the work bed… a more rigid machine makes better cuts.
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Thank you both. I should mention at some point I’ll be moving so I’ll need consider getting it through a doorway.
I would design your table with the move in mind.
The drop table on mine is held in place with 4 bolts.
The CNC machine top with the conduit is harder to take apart without resetting and squaring it all up again.
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Tom, with the Inland filament, what issues are you experiencing? I’ve been using Inland standard PLA for about a year and I’ve never really had big problems with it. I printed all of my Primo parts with the red and black actually. I did notice you have to print at the mid to higher end of the recommended heat range otherwise you get bed and layer adhesion problems. Just wondering.
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Ahh, ok. Yeah, I guess for $2 more/spool it’s definitely worth it if you’re getting better results. I’ve only used their PLA+ once for a project for a friend (he bought the spool) and liked the results. I’ve also noticed that some of their colors come as a more translucent look instead of a nice opaque material. Most notably the yellow and green.
The Blue PLA+ really popped.it was bright and striking.
The red PLA. isn’t as bright IMHO.it’s still decent but the settings seem to be a bit different.
I guess I just like the PLA+ better and for a few $ it seems worth it to me.
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If you want a full 24x24 work area go a bit larger in the calculator (like 25x25") this is so you have room for your endstops and tool size without it eating into your work area.
For height I wouldn’t go taller than 4" and would recommend the default of 3.25". Keep in mind most bits are only going to let you cut an inch at most. So unless you plan on engraving think materials you don’t need much height.
For the table, consider looking at my build thread(for a 24x24" work area machine). I posted plans for a 2x4 table that comes apart into 4’x4’ sections without having to disassemble the mpcnc itself. I designed it so I could move it in and out of my basement (Michigan winters get cold and my garage has no heat). And the whole thing will fit in my Honda fit. Also there is still room on the table for an enclosure (that I plan to build).
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Thanks. I ran the calculations and printed them. I’ll go with the recommended height for now. I figure at some point I can always change and modify if I decide it’s necessary. Until then I’ll just go with the suggested height.
Almost done printing. I have a Corner Leg Lock printing now then one more to do when I get back from running some errands.
Then it’s the Corner Bottom Mirrored, and the Core and I’m done with the prints.
My hardware came in. So that’s a big deal.
This weekend will be about printing the Corner Bottom Mirroreds. And planning the table.
Otherwise nothing exciting to report!
I’m now on the last part besides the core.
One of the Corner Bottom Mirrored is printing. The other will be printed tomorrow. Then hopefully I can start the core on Monday to finish the printing!
I’m still thinking about the table and how I want to design/build it. I’m also thinking about what to order next.
I’m also thinking about the best way to cut the EMT pipe straight with the tools that I have.