Is there a break in g-code I can run on my MPCNC? It’s 2’ x 3’ if that matters.
You can use this model and scale it down in a slicer to fit your bed size.
Thanks Walter.
What speeds would you recommend? With my 3D printer I usually print from 50 to 90 mm/s, but I’m guessing I should start much slower, but where do I stop at?
I ran mine with no filament I raised the nozzle up away from the bed and set it at 90mm/s and just let it run. it will get your head moving across all axis and start wearing things in. I’d suggest you make it a tad bit smaller than your proposed build area just to be safe.
I’m not quite sure what is going on here. I have the gantry parked at 0 for X and Y. When I manually move the gantry around it moves the way I would expect. When I go to “print” the gantry attempts to go left grinding the belt.
Got any ideas?
It is trying to home? Did you take out the start G28 command?
I just removed it. Works a lot better. Should I install some end stops so I can send it home before a print job? I’m not going to use this as a 3D printer though.
I’m against endstops, but they can be useful for complex operations.
Endstops are your safety though. Sometimes you just can’t hit that e-stop fast enough!!
End stops are for advanced users. if you try to auto home without an end stop for z you’re going to have a bad time. remove the g28 and any g29 commands. set your gantry manually to zero raise up the z axis just in case your bed isn’t level then give it a go.
Is there a 3D printable part for these end stops? I guess if I’m doing it I might as well do min and max end stops.
There really is t a use for max end stops since most slicers require you to define the bed size. and like I said you will not be doing yourself a favor if you only place end stops on x and y. without a z end stop you will drive into the bed on auto home. you can use an end stop that will stop the nozzle or tool from reaching past zero. but in most 3d printers you have either an arbitrary mechanical switch that you will have to adjust the bed to, or you will have an inductive of capacitive probe that will be set to an offset of the nozzle height. with both inductive and capacitive probes you will need to set them and auto home only when you are heated up, otherwise you risk driving the nozzle into the bed. until you understand the inner workings of these options then I would advise you to stick to manual home setting. there are many different models on thingiverse for adding endstops to the mpcnc. it depends on what kind of end stops you go with.
Those are the ones I was looking at. I will have to give them a try.
I used the same
For future reference the solution for the compilation error you had was because of an Arduino library update and you can compile the code using the latest Arduino. To fix just open the following two files SdBaseFile.cpp and SdBaseFile.h and replace all instances of fpos_t with FatPos_t. This way you would avoid double declaration in the class.
So I’m just now hooking this back up after I decided to take it home on one of the hottest days of the year and it melted the PLA. Argh.
I have .75 volts to my DRV8825 drivers but I can’t get the stepper motors to rotate. Kind of sounds like it doesn’t have enough power. After it kind of moves, I have to power it off and back on before it will attempt to move the stepper motor. Repetier host is still setup from last time I messed with my MPCNC so I doubt anything has changed there. I did have this working before I decided to take it home and had the melted PLA.
Those are miniature pictures.
Do you have all three jumpers under the drivers?
Sorry about that. The larger pictures are on the 1st page of this thread.
Yes all three jumpers are on under the drivers.