I purchased a V3 hardware kit in July of 2023. I had since printed all the 3d parts. Life got interesting and I ended up losing the upper lobe in my left lung. I am just now feeling much better and want to jump into working with my CNC to be. I have opened my box that was mailed to me way back when, just last week. Looked onto the main website to verify the parts list and wow things are much newer. My question is what parts are not usable/compatible from the V3 to the V4, I would have to reprint the entire pasts list again ack!!!. My next is it better to use the newer Jackpot controller versus the V1.2 board. my next question is, is there a difference between the aluminum XZ plates from version 3 to V4. I had purchased those along with the V3 hardware package. I’m still trying to figure out what table to build. I know it will be Full size workable 4X8. I want to create the fancy shmancy head and foot boards the orients love so well. Every bit of time you folks are wiling to spend helping me will be and is greatly appreciated. thank you in ADVANCE. Stewyscrewy yeah Im all screwed up Litterally L5-S1 and C4-5-6-7
Welcome back!
If you have everything for the LR3, I would encourage you to build it as is. It will work and get you going. Buying the newer controller and reprinting the parts, buying new aluminum plates and getting longer z screws will just add more time to your build and make a pile of new waste parts. There are probably a few rooting for the LR4 over the LR3, but until you have really pushed the 3 to its limits, I think youll find it plenty capable to do what you plan.
Very sorry to hear about your lung!!! Must have been horrible! Glad you are healing. I agree With orob! Complete the lr3! Lr4 is an improvement, but get running and then decide later if you want to upgrade! Maybe one of your projects can be the aluminum plates you will need.
Hello, Stuart. Welcome to the V1 community forums.
I’m glad to hear you’re on the mend.
Before I answer any of the questions, I think we need to learn a bit more about you and how you intend to use your machine to best advise you.
The LR3 that you have a kit for is an awesome machine. There’s a bunch of them built and in use.
The LR4 is even more awesome, particularly in a few use cases. I’m going to explore the differences a bit before making a recommendation.
First off, you mention full sheet size, and your talk of head boards hints that you may have production in mind. How many full size sheets do you think you’ll be cutting? Do you plan on doing regular work for hire or running a shop / product line with your machine?
Some parts can be used with either kit (controller boards, motors, wiring), but much of the kit is very different between the two machines. The aluminum plates are different, the EMT tubing is a different size, all the printed parts and strut plates are different between the machines.
Some things for you to consider:
The LR4 has more rigidity in general, but as you scale it up to 4x8 and larger it really shines by comparison. The bigger the machine, the more advantage the LR4 has over the LR3.
If you are comfortable printing the parts, milling the aluminum plates, and waiting a while, it wouldn’t be terrible to build the LR3 stock, then start stashing away parts for an eventual upgrade build.
Let’s hear more about you and your application and your comfort level- and we’ll chat our way through a recommendation.
Hardware wise that’s just not true, sorry. There is an upgrade kit with all the additional/different hardware you need:
The printed parts are completely different though. Sincs the rails are also different, I would consider building the LR3 if you already bought those. If you haven’t, I’d buy the kit from Ryan and start printing the LR4. 
True. From the point of view of fasteners, T8 rods, and plates there is an upgrade kit.
I’d still like to hear about planned usage before I recommend either way.
Hello everyone Thank you for your support and kind words. I am a crafter of every genre. I wont do anything in Half measures. I.E. I wanted to learn to embroidery for shirts hats etc. bought a 15 needle without ever seeing a machine in person. I did the tumblers for few years, I can turn 13 at a time. I wanted to 3d print and I own I own 6 creality ender3 max neo I started the diamond paintings The Last Supper 3X6ft was my first project. You get the idea. wide open, full blast of steam. I am 65 tomorrow. my plans are to do production of sorts. I have 8 requests of headboard/foot board, and I was just talking about making one for myself. Guess folks like my stuff. I’m thinking of metal frame versus wood built. Kreg KRS1035 Multi-Purpose Shop Stand, on Amazon. 2 of them end to end and frame out from there. After looking at the responses, Thank you. My question is how is the rigidity on the V3 on the 8"6" run versus V4 I am concerned there would be a bit of sag/play at that length. I hear everyone loud and clear I have everything printed, so why not use it. I will be asking for loads of help to build my machine. I can almost guarantee i am half brain ded now. I have looked at both table builds posted on here is there an overall winner to the build or just go with what tickles ones fancy? The $400 is i believe about the same costs for the lumber to build the strongest box posted. While the other looks simpler by designs and I am sure costs per board foot. At this point I will give every suggestion serious consideration as this will be my last genre and go
of crafting and I want to go out with a BANG
The length of the Y axis doesn’t really affect rigidity, so I would think that both the LR3 and LR4 would be suitable. The LR4 is more rigid in general, but the LR3 is still a great option.
It’s your choice. If you think that you’ll regret not upgrading, then spend the extra money and go for the LR4. If you want to save a little cash, and don’t mind not having the latest and greatest, then stick with the LR3
LR4 then, definitely. 
Bang them hard. 
Is a torsion box required for the table build, or has anyone designed a sturdier table without building one? I am leaning towards a build without the torsion box, if possible, with the exception that you guys think I am heading down the wrong path. I am going to pass up on the metal frame idea for now. I have plenty of lumber IE plywood, 4x4’s, and 2x4’s from home remodel leftovers. I would also like to ask what a good height for the table build
Absolutely NOT!
Any relatively flat surface can work (see discussion and ideas in this link…)
That really depends on you (your height, your work space, the weight and size of materials you will be lifting onto it, etc.).
My table is adjustable, from 36" to 42". The lower height is great for lifting full sheets of 3/4" plywood and/or MDF. The higher height is great for up close work without having to bend over all the time. Your ideal height will probably be somewhere in between those two.
Nope.
I did build a torsion box for my Primo, but the original build was just on a sheet of MDF. Actually the MDF sheet just sits on top of the torsion box. I used it without the box for months.
I built a torsion box for my LR3. (Well, I built it for an LR2) but when converting, it caused more problems than ot solved.
My LR4 was also built on a sheet of MDF, and it’s still using that slung over a couple of Ikea Kallax shelf units. It will probably eventually sag if I just leave it that way, so I’ll put something to stiffen it underneath, but at this point it’s likely to just be a couple of 2x4s.
At present, the LR4 gets the most use of the 3 CNC machines in the workroom.
May I ask how you achieved the height adjustment? I am very intrigued to add something like this to my build.
I used four linear actuators. Each actuator is rated for 200 lbs, so it can hold a fair bit of weight (800 lbs evenly distributed).
Two of mine are vertical ( with 500 lb drawer slides), and two are set at an angle so the table top can tilt, but you could set vertical actuators and drawer slides in each corner for a strictly vertical adjustment. They come in a variety of lengths, so you can pick how much adjustment you want.
See the link above in post #11