All my electronics are bolted to a bottom plate and hung from underneath the machine. I used ACM panel for it and cut it on the MPCNC but it could just as easily been done by hand.
are you using can bus to the carriage with the hot end?
Yes, think Mike uses EBB36. Am using the mount he designed and shared 
We’re both using stranded Cat cable.
@azab2c is correct. The holes o. The top of the mount are for standoffs to mount either the EBB36 or 42. A standard standoff should screw right in.
Can bus would make it so I don’t have to extend a ton of wires…
True. For me, there was a learning curve, ran into some issues that took time to understand and work through. For example, needed to replace an unresponsive/malfunctioning EBB36. Glad for the experience though, had been looking for an opportunity to learn about CAN bus.
I agree with @azab2c . Look at my build and i linked all the articles i used. I did the Manta MP8 with a CB1 and couldnt be happier with it.
The bulk of the wires on my other Hypercube builds compared to thsi is staggering.
So I need a part cooling fan mount for the H2V2S… Any thoughts?
Oh, and in case anyone cares: no, I’m not embarrassed of the wiring spaghetti photo from before. My son is embarrassed for me because he is super anal about tidy wiring. I told him when I’m done he should be marginally ok with it, but not likely proud. Who else decases all their electronics so they can exactly space components to look perfect… not this guy.
Lol, yeah, I spent wasted lots of time making my electronics pretty.
My experience is that the same folks that put effort into making wiring clean also end up with wiring that doesn’t snag, work free, pinch, bind, or short…
In other words, rats nests are often broken. Clean setups generally are not.
Served me wrong… Just ordered another octopus. The smoke was released with a little flash of light and a pop. I just wanted a mockup to see if motor movement and thermal sensors were functional before cleaning it up and first power killed it.
I will add that just because the wires were not pretty doesn’t mean they were not in the correct place. This isn’t my first rodeo. Likely user error for sure, but no idea what happened. The silver box on the half of the board opposite the USB smoked. But one of the 2209s arced nearest the USB and lit up for a split second before the pop and smoke.
I agree with your comments that clean builds tend to last longer and not fail with normal use and are simpler to service in the long run. The effort to clean up was to come after the functional test so I didn’t have to rerun wires in the loom and rethread and attach again. I had no plans to actually run it in that shape other than verify the wiring, directions, channels, etc. The comment was about the fact that even my efforts to clean up to ensure reliability would still not be sufficient for my boy who is super meticulous about it…
Sorry for your board loss. Killed my SKR too, didn’t ground properly before changing wiring while board was powered up. Wiring at 3am didn’t help.
Any ideas on why board died? Unlike SKR, I didn’t need to clip/bend TMC2209’s diag pins before installing drivers onto my Octopus V1.1
The Ethernet port for CAN bus smoked, or something else?
there are two blue fuses horizontal in the picture. below the right one is a capacitor and below that is a vertical surface mount cap and below that is a square silver box (1R5). Not sure if that is an inductor, but it smoked. the arc came from the 2209 closest to the usb at the bottom and before I could power it off, it popped and smoked.
I’m not really happy with my BQ luck right now. As it stands, only 1 of the three boards I’ve gotten from them is functional. My SKR on the primo is chugging along. The E3V3 upgrade for my ender is bricked and this octopus is toast. Plus the brand new SD card that was in this board fried as well.
I jumpered the board as outlined in the voron documentation since its setup is going to be only slightly different than the voron.
It was late last night, there were too many things plugged in to start with and I needed a $60 piece of humble pie. I will encourage all to go slow and do one thing at a time… even if you’ve done this a few times before.
I.am generally very careful with my wiring… but not super neat.
My MP3DP v3 is still a bit of a mess. Not quite “rat’s nest” but not where I’d really like. I tend to stop when things work.
My v4 is … well not much better. I tried to do a little better with the initial design, so it has some nice wire runs, but once again, once it all works…
That is what I thought I was but I have this cognitive dissonance thing going on where things are just not as they seem…
but it is just a board and thankfully can be easily replaced.
What a bummer to see that the Octopus board was damaged.
You’re off to a good start of the build and I’m watching with interest.
I should elaborate a bit on the whole organized vs rats nest thing. It’s my nature to want to just hook things up quickly and test- just as you did. That has never served me great either, and as I’ve gone along I’ve spent a lot of forcing myself to slow down, clean up, organize, route better, etc. That has served me well at work and the things I’ve worked on over the last few decades have gone up in value by about 6 orders of magnitude. So I tend to over do it. That’s got a lot of down sides as well.
It means I tend to stall out and take a long time building things and I have no shortage of unfinished projects and stopped or abandoned plans. That’s not great, either.
I get both sides of the “Perfect is the enemy of good enough” debate.
I’m really curious about what happened to that Octopus board. Mostly since it seems there is a lot of boards getting fried, and though it isn’t possible to protect against every mistake it does strike me that there is way too little protection in these boards for things that could be made less likely to get toasted
It seems the most common failure is hooking up an endstop wrong, or a user hot-mating or hot de-mating a connector while the board is powered. Just thinking out loud what could be done to make that less likely or less damaging.
When I used to host 3d printer help days at the local makerspace, it was amazing to me how often I’d see severely smoked boards. That’s only partly the users’ fault. I suppose there isn’t much downside for the low end board manufacturers to skimp on protective features because every smoked board is a fresh new sale.
To pop two fuses and arc a 2209 is a pretty significant event. Do you have any other recollection of what may have gone wrong?
(Edited to change SKR to Octopus, since that’s what the board is)
That 1R5 should be a 1.5 Ohm SMT inductor.
To the left of that I see two voltage regulators that appear to be blown.
I don’t see any obvious sign of a sustained arc or short on the 2209 socket by the USB. What did the driver itself look like?
My uninformed guess would be an a power rail got shorted to ground- maybe with an endstop.
off it would have been wise to flash the board with only power and nothing else but the SD card.
I set all jumpers according to the voron 2.4 docs for the octopus. Their diagram showed red boxes for which to remove and green boxes for which to add for the 2209 setup. I did bend the one pin similar to the SKR pro on the MPCNC and that needs to be bend back, but not a showstopper
all 5 steppers were plugged in and all 8 of the 2209’s were on the board though only 6 were required. The wiring connectors both ends of each of the 3 z motor wires were custom crimped by the author and it is possible a wire strand was missed and one of them shorted. Probably not the most likely scenario to cause what occurred.
No heater coil wires were plugged in because voron docs said don’t until after you have your config set, but the bed heater SSR digital side was connected
the extruder hot end fan was connected.
both the bed thermal sensor and the hot end thermal sensor were wired in.
I did have one end stop plugged in, now that you mentioned the end stops… I had it wired like the MPCNC. I should have doulbe checked that and I bet that is the issue right there. Are the end stops supposed to be NC or NO. On the MPCNC, they are NC… that could very likely be the issue.
On the octopus 1.1 schematic that matches the board layout (446 processor), the part that smoked is L9.
You mention 2 parts that appear to be blown. I’ve taken a better photo for review. How would I get replacements for those… mouser? do I need a hot air rework station or will my old weller be able to do it?
If that were my board and I was going to try and fix it, I might try to pull the smoked parts by heating up the pads on the components and using a pair of small side cutters to help free them up up. It’s already dead, so just taking care to not overheat and lift a pad is most important. I’d be willing to cut up a part as long as I could cleanly get the lead de-soldered from the pad.
I’d try to clean it up with some solder braid, re-tin the pads, then solder down the replacements. None of those look like they have to be hot air rework.
Mostly, that’s about how good your detail work is and whether that old weller has a suitable tip.
You probably can buy the parts from Mouser or Digikey, though they might be a little spendy for single unit purchases.
