MP3DP V4 Build

I have not used a Hemera before. I did set the retraction low but not .35 low lol. I had it at .6 @ 45mm/s I will bring it down to the .35 and give that a shot and see what happens.

YEah it surprised me as well. The settings are so very different. Turn the retract speed down as well. It si geared really high so if you try to move too fast it just doesn’t retract. I used to have it at 25mm/s but I think the docs say 37. I will tune mine again soon and probably make my setting public here soon.

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I will be gone all of today so I am not ignoring anyone if you don’t hear from me. Hiking in the woods near the ocean, super excited.

Good luck, I think you are just about done. At this point though I think you will be good to go.

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That sounds amazing! I hope you have a great time! My knee hurts just thinking about all the walking lol. I will be in and out most of the day. Daughter turns 18 tomorrow. Surprise party at her boyfriends house today and Shrimp boil here tomorrow lol. But I’m sure I’ll be playing with it when I can and will post up what I find. No rush at all for you to respond. Thank you so much for all your help with everything!!! Enjoy your Hike!!!

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Getting old, eh? That’s a clear sign: you go hiking. :yum: Have fun, it sounds lovely.

@vicious1 No rush but do you think I need to back off the acceleration at all since I’m at 300x300? I’m not sure if that could cause this problem or not. About to run out again but when I get back I’m going to try to print the benchy again with the retraction set at .35 and 25mm/s and see how that goes. Just wanted to ask about the acceleration while I was on my mind lol.

Got another benchy going now with the new retraction settings. One thing i noticed when i took the other benchy off is that it was extremely brittle. Like its under extruding. I checked the e steps and they were dead on. Maybe I have my wall count too low. its at .2 layer height with a .4 wall thickness and 2 walls. 4 top and bottom layers. Maybe I should bump that up some??? Feel like I’m having to learn 3d printing all over again.

First successful print!!

This one was much stronger. Only setting changed was the retraction. Oh and while I was out today I put that roll of filimant in my makeshift dryer so I’m sure that had something to do with it as well


Congratulations! Nice looking benchy!

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I recognize those parts. :smirk:


I knew someone would LOL…got the next 4 going now. Just using some old white I had from back when I was making a bunch of Lithophanes. Figured it didn’t matter what color since they will be hidden lol.

When this set finishes this evening I need to try and figure out my mesh leveling issue. I changed to to a 4 x 4 grid and now it will probe the entire bed until the last spot and that one fails. and I’m pretty sure when it fails it just throws the rest of the mesh away and prints as its flat.

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I’ve never had a good time printing white. It is the most challenging IMO. At least the brands I’ve tried. Those look good though.

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Its Overture Pla Pro. That’s pretty much all I print with. Even if I go to PETG or ASA its Overture brand. I’ve had the best luck with it out of everything I’ve ever tried

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Teach tech has a really good acceleration tuning section. I would run through that. I would be curious where you land with the numbers. I do suggest you get ready to run a couple starting with a really wide range then narrow it down. It does come down to personal preferences, like what is acceptable to you. I print large parts so I like to tune for large parts.

I am not sure about path width, all my slicers usually have a default setting that I never change.

Tuning can be pretty fun, do it in order and I usually run through it at least twice. As you get the settings close.

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Its crazy…that small change in retraction setting seemed to be the ticket for all of the actual printing problems I was having. The last benchy came out damn near perfect. Only problem I’m getting right now is slight first layer issues due to it not completing the leveling process that i have to figure out. When this print is done (around 8pm tonight) I’m going to tighten up the opposite corner from where its failing. Lower it down slightly and that should raise where its failing slightly. Then ill see if it will complete a mesh.

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If you plug into a computer when it does the mesh you can get the output. There are a few sites online you can just copy and paste them to. Then you can visualize what is happening.

The only reason it fails is it is way out of spec. Although…that can be caused by a badly warped bed, loose X rail bearing to carriage mount, or…your wires and reverse bowden might be binding up back there and messing with the head/probe.

If you visualize the mesh, and watch it as it probes you will likely see the issue. Again not common I don’t think.

Oh and make sure after the three point physical level that the z trucks are not hitting the top belt mounts. I have had that a few times. There should be a few mm’s to spare.

I have an RPi 4 here that i was going to use to run klipper on it. I’m going to just flash it with Octoprint for now and set it up so i can see the mesh. I don’t have a USB cord long enough to hook up my computer to it where its at now lol. But that should give me the output I need. Just from looking my bedplate seems flat as can be. Hell its 1/4" thick lol. That’s way more than any printer i have lol.

Also do you run a volcano end on any of your Hemera’s? was doing some reading that those can not only hook right up but also drastically increase the melt volume which can increase the speed a good bit. But I just don’t have the knowledge to adapt the fan mount for it. I know I’m rushing things thinking about speeding up already but it was just a thought in my head i wanted to mention.

Once you move to klipper I will not be of much help. You might want to dial it in this way first.

I would add a volcano but currently cooling is my bottleneck. You’ll see fast printers with all sorts of cooling mods. I’m not ready for that. Making sure longevity is there before I really really start pushing speed, which will no doubt reduce reliability.

The octoprint terminal will tell you the response to the mesh level (with Marlin, at least). You can also send G29 there.

Klipper is a whole different animal.