I get that for a Bowden setup. But this is a direct drive extruder setup. That’s what made me question the Capricorn being worth the added cost
Yes, I used to have a bowden setup with this printer, I then changed to a direct drive and I am still using “capricorn tubing”.
I think it’s worth the extra cost for both bowden and direct drive.
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Yes I’m using the rubber maid containers as well. Each with a 3d printed spool roller and a humidity sensor mounted. It makes a huge difference. Also have decadent in the bottom as well. Keeps the spools at or under 20% humidity vs 50% without them. Makes a big difference in the print.
Also planning to take some weight sensors I bought a while back for a project I can’t even remember and going to make scales for them to sit on. Hoping I can calibrate to know exactly how much filament is on each spool lol
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There’s no such thing as more flimsy PTFE. Probably some other material, which is fine for this application-maybe even preferred. As long as you’re not using it as bowden tube for a remote extruder with flexible materials I bet it works great.
Anecdote: I encountered one specific lot of wire from one reputable wire supplier that was noticeably more flexible than usual. Sent a sample to the M&P lab for evaluation. The jacket wasn’t PTFE. 100,000 feet of wire off to the scrap bin. It was supposed to be PTFE jacketed, silver coated stranded copper wire. (Didn’t have silver coating over the copper strands, either) Counterfeit materials with fake certificates.
PTFE is what it is, and if it doesn’t behave like PTFE including the rigidity of it when extruded… It isn’t PTFE.
I hope you get that working. It’d be nice to have an at-the glance estimate of available filament. I always muck up my estimates of how much is on partial spools, below about half. It sucks too that different suppliers use different spools with the inner diameter different, making it even worse.
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I hope I can get it working too! My plan is to have the container and all sitting on the scale. Weigh it with an empty spool and then weigh it again with a full spool. Hoping after that homeassistant/esphome can take care of the rest lol
Well as most have seen from my other thread I’m down a hot end. And the new heater block I got came with everything BUT the screws to clamp the heater cartridge and the thermistor in. I just spent over an hour trying to get them out of the old heat block and all I managed to do was round them out. So they are trash and still firmly inside the old heat block.
So I seem to be at a cross roads now. 1. I can try to find what size screws and all go in the heat block and order them. 2. Or I can try to figure out how to mount this beautiful looking H2 V2S I have sitting here. Also add in that either way I go I want to switch over to Klipper/Mainsail and do a CAN upgrade to limit the amount of wires going to the core.
So what’s everyone’s opinion on this? Y’all are way more knowledgeable than I am in this stuff.
OHH… I almost forgot. I think I also smoked the SKR Pro when I was trying to first clear the “blob”. Something went pop and everything went dark. I have not investigated further. It could be just a blown fuse for all I know. But If it is the board smoked. Should I just replace it with one of the spare SKR Pros I have from the CNC Machines or should I throw in this Octopus Pro V1 I have here??
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I’m using a H2V2s, but it requires a new carrier for it and a fan mount and a bltouch mount as well. Octopus works well for this and you can probably use someone’s config file and be running quickly. Either will work. Just be methodical with the wires.
Bonus points: if you decide to cut your area in half, you could mount a second extruder using one of the 2 extra channels and double your output… But an skr pro will work also.
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From memory, the E3Dv6 block takes M3 thread screws. The set screw for the 3mm cartridge blocks are the same as the grub screws in those GT2 timing belt pulleys, and the 5mm-8mm lead screw couplers.
In the pit thermistor version, an M3x4mm screw works, I think an M3x6mm will still fit.
The clamp screw for the heater cartridge is a good old M3x8mm screw, but I think an M3x10mm will work. I ended up using some random ones I had around.
How do you like that extruder? I found this on Printables last night and printed it…
https://www.printables.com/model/544033-mp3dp-v4-rail-mount-for-biqu-h2vs-revo
No bonus points for me but would be cool to see someone do it.
Wish I would have asked this a week ago. I have those screws here LOL.
Do you have a front-door/enclosed MP3DP, if so will this fit? Thought the fan was proud of the front, noticed in orob’s video.
No my printer isn’t fully enclosed. Just side panels and the partial front. I found this fan/duct on printables and I’m going to give it a shot. The one @probrwr linked for me used a different heat block than mine has so I don’t think it will work.
https://www.printables.com/model/494404-vortex-viper-5015-parts-cooling-system-for-biqu-h2
That is my mount. I do not have a door on it and honestly I am not sure if it sticks out past the front plane of the printer. I will look when I get home.
Do you have the H2V2S Lite?
Yes sir I do.
Good luck! Like that you’re going with larger screen, nice! My 3.5" screen is awkward to use. Fortunately printer is very close to PC, so am mostly using mainsail web app to interact/control.
Just created playlist of CANbus content I watched when setting up https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC3VDmXcVPU93-3EvwPKBNJz9Ci7V2tVx&si=ZLq9mTfzBpy6lD-H, watched bunch of Voron Octopus CANBus content given how similar the setup is. Includes some CANBus content not related to printer build, partly because am curious about using CANBus for other projects.
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Mine are all in the same room but when doing something that you need to move things around its so much easier doing it right at the printer. Computer and printer are on opposite sides of the room. I put an HDMI 5 on my Ender 5 Plus and LOVE it. So wanted to try out the 7 and see if it was any better/ worth the extra money. The V4 has been a money pit anyways so why not LOL.
THANK YOU!!! This is Awesome!!! I’m sure I will need all the help plus some!
I need to go though your github again. I think the board I have is the same one you are running so with me adding the can bus as well I should be able to steal your printer.cfg as a good starting point and make things at least some what easier. I really need to learn how to navigate github better. IDK why but its always just so confusing to me.
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Making a little progress. Got the belts all reattached on the new core. And for the first time ever I was actually able to get it to land square in the back. I’ve fought with that so many times it’s not even funny
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Man this CAN Bus stuff is WAY more confusing than I thought it was going to be LOL
@azab2c am I missing something to be able to view this file?? I don’t see anywhere that lets me open it, but I’m github dumb lol
Took me days… Klipper forum has bunch of posts sharing my struggles. Folks there were helpful when I got stuck.