Oh it didn’t bother me any to drop it. But it was just crazy to see it skip steps during homing
I am looking at the 1/4 MDF and thinking is might be too flexible. Anyone tried plexiglass?
Ive bought two or three of those, and I can assure you they’re worth what you pay for them… one is still sort of assembled. Most are okay for about 6 months of my usage. I self.designed one that lasted 3 years. It still works, but I don’t use it much anymore, it’s getting picky.
My MP3DPv3 is still going strong. I did have to replace the CF rail (I used an aluminum square tube instead, and it’s good.) My v4 sees a lot of use. I am having bed adhesion issues with it now, but that isn’t the printer’s fault. It seems to happen now and again, maybe humidity?
A good printer costs more, but gives you fewer problems. I believe the v4 will be a worthwhile build for you.
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No, but came close… Tried Plywood and sheet metal (thin stuff found in HVAC aisle of big box store), but ended up going with Polycarbonate (Lexan) which seems less likely to crack/haze than PlexiGlass (Acrylic) exposed to IPA (something that’ll likely be used to clean the print bed).
Built my MP3DP mainly for the learning experience, and joy of it. My build would’ve been faster and cheaper if I kept it simple, and stuck to what others had already successfully done.
~Half of the things I experimented with ended up trashed 
(because of direction change), or failing
…
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I agree, but it’s still a hard value proposition when this $200 printer has been going strong for 4 years.
I have not had to even tighten the belts.
I’ve tinkered with it here and there, but really have had 0 problems with it.
My only real complaints are that the bed has often been just a little too small, and I really want to be able to do other filaments.
I do think a MP3DP is in my future. Maybe next year
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My bed is 1/4" aluminum. My bed support is 1/4" MDF.
My build is here with all the choices I made
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Can anyone help me understand why its printing like this? Is there some setting I need to change in the slicer?? I have printed this file a few times on various printers and never had it do like this.
Is it printing off an SD card?
The only time I’ve seen a printer act jerky like that is when a sender was struggling to stream the GCode or the board struggling to process it in time
No printing from octoprint. But it hasn’t had a single issue with any other print. Its only the circles in this print for some reason. I will be printing another one later today, I’ll throw it on an SD card and try it that way and see if its any different. Thanks!
Oh, is it only the circles? I couldn’t give you the details, but I remember reading about issues with arc commands.
Do you know if it’s issuing G2/G3 commands rather than many successive G1s?
I’ve read before something about Marlin having issues with that. I don’t want to lie and go into more details though lol.
Maybe someone with some experience with that will come along
I’m not sure ill have to dig into the gcode. Is there a setting in super slicer I need to change for it to give the G2/G3? Guess I should google that LOL
I’m not sure. I feel like one of the slicers didn’t support it all, so in that case, it could be just hammering a ton of small commands.
I could be way off, just trying help you think a little until someone who knows more drops in lol
Google say’s it was put in super slicer back in 2020 but i cant find anything on how to use it. I know I have printed round things before like this and its never been a problem. But the V4 is the only printer I use SS on. I use Cura for the other 2. And I don’t remember what printer i used the last time i printed one of these LOL
Might be time to try the “arc welder” plug in I keep seeing
I use arc welder on Octoprint. Love it.
Edit to add: My TAZ 5 had plenty of stuttering issues with arcs in particular, and both Cura and Prusa Slicer both seemed to generate lots of short little arcs, making the problem worse. Arc welder made that much less of a problem, and for round objects they print much better looking as single arcs instead of short line segments.
I also upgraded from the stock Lulzbot firmware to Drunken Octopus firmware. Both are Marlin, and the maintainer of DO firmware was formerly the Lulzbot firmware maintainer before Lulzbot melted down and ended up getting sold. Marlin 2.0 is much better than 1.x in this regard.
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Any particular one? there seem to be several plug ins for it.
On the other hand the exact same model is printing from SD card right now and the arcs are working just fine. So seems like its an issue with octoprint not the slicer or the printer…
SD prints don’t have the latencies that USB prints do. But even aside that, as I added above, getting rid of lots of tiny line/arc segments to have a single move still improves things noticeably. I had some G code files that reduced by as much as 80% after they were processed. That’s a lot of lines not to need to send.
Here’s the one I have installed:
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Good deal. I will for sure check it out. Afraid to install it right now. Even though I’m printing from SD the pi is still hooked up and if it disconnects weird stuff happens (at least it does on my other printers) but when this print is done I will for sure check it out.
Was just reading about the plugin and it mentioned that arc support had to be turned on in configuration_adv.h so I had it pulled up and checked…
Could this be why it was printing that way before? I don’t see how since its doing fine now but just made me curious. Was surprised to see it off.
edit. nevermind. Im an idiot. It is turned on. I was looking at the wrong thing… 
We still love you. 
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@azab2c i can’t find the post to quote but I remember you saying something about using order guide tube that’s 3mmID instead of the normal 2mm ID stuff.
I’m setting up a bunch of dry boxes and want to run some from each box and only have to change connections at the filament sensor (if I even keep it in line since it’s being such a pain) so trying to buy some in bulk.
Is there any reason to spend the extra for Capricorn tubing over this stuff on Amazon?