I think superslicer is overextruding your two top layers, causing print failure. I thought that looking at your pictures as the layers look significantly overextruded.
I did a bit of searching. You may be running into the issue shown below. Crank down the flow on your top layers.
Finally got a good print off of it! I slowed the acceleration way down. That made a huge difference in the jerky and it’s no longer skipping steps. Well not for this print anyways lol. Hopefully a lot more to come
Ok now for the actual print. I printed @vicious1 xzyz test and took measurements with my calipers. Time to invest in a larger pair lol. I was at the max for these. Anyways take a look a the numbers for me and tell me if it’s off enough to worry about and if so what steps should I take to fix it. The frame is as square as I can get it with a metric tape measure. So I’m not 100% sure what to mess with next or if I even need to. Relying on you much more experienced guys to let me know. Thank you!!!
If you can’t get the machine any more square, then maybe check to see if Klipper has Skew Compensation. (I know nothing about Klipper)
Marlin has it. I used that on my Ender 3 to get everything squared up before printing my LR3 parts.
Edit: Google always knows… Skew Correction
I know somewhere Ryan said there was some amount that was “good enough”, but I guess that depends on what you intend to print.
My printer was close enough without the skew correction, but I decided to do it anyway, because why not? Figured I might as well make it as good as I could, whether it was necessary or not
I’m running marlin so I will look into that. I just didn’t know if what I had was enough to worry about
Ah, well if you have Marlin, you may have to recompile the firmware to enable skew correction. I can’t remember if it is enabled by default.
In that case, that’s another variable to consider whether it’s worth the trouble for you or not.
Less than a half mm off is pretty close
Hey @Jonathjon, your post a few days ago made me pay more attention to my belts. Just noticed unexpected flapping rising/falling belt motion on my right side because my idler is wrong way around 
, details here, sharing incase you’re having similar issue still. Cheers!
Thanks @azab2c I took a look at that and mine are orientated correctly. It hasn’t been doing it nearly as much as before since I tensioned them a little better. Still trying to get this thing truly square. Printing the bed skew prints now and going to give that a try like @Michael_Melancon suggest.
Does anyone know how to get super slicer to wait until everything is heated up before it starts homing?? I think that’s been throwing me some weird stuff. Bed isn’t sticking well in spots and I think that’s because its being leveled while its still expanding. But I am slicer dumb and cant find anywhere to change that.
What does your start G-Code look like?
M109 and M190 are probably what you are looking for to wait before your homing GCode
I tried adding that, the heat stuff gets put in before it gets to the custom start gcode and there is no wait. I have tried googling it but keep coming up empty.
Looking at it now, I see why I always get a slight hesitation before it starts printing. I just wish it would heat up before it started homing/leveling
ah, ok. I use PrusaSlicer, so my start GCode has something like:
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
You can check SuperSlicer macros for custom GCode and still inject it there probably
EDIT:
looks like the above should work for you still too
Yep I didn’t have the { part right when I did it. Going to add that in there now and see what happens on the next print. THANK YOU!
While we are on the subject. Do you run a purge line? or just let your skirt do the purge? Anything else in your start gcode I should add?
I do a purge line even though I also use skirt.
Since I went to the 0.6 nozzle, I find that the ooze out empties more of the filament, and about half of my purge line is blank, so my prints probably wouldn’t work without it.
I used to like the prime line that my old Cura profiles gave me better, but currently the PrusaSlicer default is
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000
G92 E0
G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0
I still need to tweak my start profile a bit as it kinda annoys me the extra delays that are in there, but this is the PrusaSlicer default
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp
G4 S30 ; allow partial nozzle warmup
G28 ; home all axis
G1 Z50 F240
G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000
M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000
G92 E0
G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0
It does a partial warmup only to 150 so it doesn’t start oozing before the Z home.
I don’t really like this G4 S30 dwell command it has, but I also haven’t taken the time to make it better.
I would probably prefer if it looked something like:
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp
M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
M109 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
G28 ; home all axis
G1 Z50 F240
G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000
M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp
M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000
G92 E0
G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0
just to optimize the waiting a little bit. (I just made those changes in this editor…so careful of any errors lol )
Thanks for the gcode @Michael_Melancon! I put it in this morning and now its heating before it does anything else. I also left your 30s pause in there. My bed is 1/4" aluminum plate with glass on top of that. Let that heat soak in and give it just a little bit longer to hopefully stabilize before all the leveling starts lol.
My startup script is similar.
I heat up the bed first. I wait for it to get to temp. Once I get to temp, I set the nozzle temp. Then I immediately go into homing the axis. After homing x,y, and z, I do the auto-z level.
Usually by the time all the homing and leveling is finished, the hot end is up to temperature.
I do run a purge command that runs along the edge of the bed and then does the ‘swipe’ across the edge to wipe the nozzle.
I still do a skirt, but the skirt is usually more to give me a chance to make sure my microsteps are still set correctly fro the first layer.
Yeah I think with the thickness of the aluminum on my bed its better to wait a little longer to let it equalize better. Its working good now.
I need to figure out how to add the wipe. With a .06 nozzle its now wiping across the print bed lol
Exactly! Luckily I haven’t needed to do much of that since I set the probe offset but its always nice to check
One day I’ll build me a nice printer with all these fancy features…
I’m still running a mostly stock 2019 Ender 3 Pro.
My “Wipe” is me with a pair of needle nose pliers trying to clear all the filament ooze as close as possible to before it touches the bed and starts.
And adjusting the dials by hand during the skirt.
And praying…
New head-canon for Mike while printing:
Didn’t the pro have a bltouch on it? If so you can do baby stepping z while its starting the print, or really any time
If im wrong its easy to add. And good practice before you dive head first into a MP3DP lol
No it didn’t. I bought this at the time where silent drivers weren’t a thing yet and TL Smoothers were all the rage.
BL Touch was still fairly new I think.
I looked at the CR Touch a bit. Every time I think about adding more stuff to this printer, I look at all these $200 printers that have all of these features and tell myself I’m not spending any more on it.
I was super into a Voron 2.4 when I found it, until I also found the price.
I really just want one with a bigger bed and a few of the new features. It serves it’s purpose now so it’s hard to justify the cost of a new one. I guess I’ll wait til this one dies.
I really want to be able to print more things, like TPU, ASA, etc.
Maybe when the time comes, you and @azab2c will have made it super easy for me already 
