No worries from me! Same on the meet!
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Cleaned off the Primo and set up to cut my bottom panel. Of course I tightened the Y Endstops and they broke so I had to print new ones. Now all my colors don’t Match 
No worries!
I got some new 1/8 downcut bits in as I have had issues with the thinner material being pulled up. I set it up to bore the holes for the DIN rails first and as it finished them I added screw to hold the piece down and removed the outside screws holding the piece. I “May” have undersized and skewed my rough cuts. It is time to fix the spoil board on this thing.
Pretty happy with how this came out! The side skirts work great but I failed in my measurements for the front. New ones printing now. I am coming up on 2Kg of this PLA+ so far! Just ordered two more to make sure I can get through all the things I need to. Trust me, I have made a LOT of errors!
The square hole is for a cable chain coming from the bed supports. It will carry the Z stepper drives and all the bed wiring. Each corner has a 15mm hole to allow wiring from inside to get below the bottom plate. Fronts for A/B motors, back left for power, and back right will probably be my CAN bus wiring from the hotend. Looking forward o only have 4 wires to mess with!
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Cheers for sharing, appreciate the info, am also figuring out how to route, organize and mount wiring/DIN/electrical too. Leaning towards CNC’d panels where possible. So many options…
Designed some din mount adapters for the BTT Manta M8P. They mount to these DIN mounts from Amazon.[DIN mounts](1.08 Width Universal DIN Rail Mount https://a.co/d/cVanm7q)
Made me very happy when they worked perfectly right off the printer!
I also said in another thread that I would share my cable chain setup. The intent is to route the wires in the extrusion supporting the bed. This could easily be done with the standard bed mount. The chain is a 15x15. It will carry three stepper wires, bed heater, thermister and ground wire for the bed.
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Nice! Looks like you’re sorted out already, but incase you need more DIN and other mounts, guessing you’ve already seen Voron’s Electronics Bay models ?
Cheers for your post sharing a link to your BIQU H2 Revo to Hemera Mount.
Those are really nice looking. I could use those in the future.
Installed the Bed and was looking at space. I think with some low profile rollers I can put the spool inside!
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Will you be able to change a spool mid print, or change the filament change to go to Z max when changing?
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Thinking about putting a hinged door on the right side to reach into it. Sadly I feel the ERCF in my future also so that will take some thinking later.
I don’t normally do prints that use more than a spool and when I am a dumb ass and overprint a spool I make scrap 
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Anyone that is using the Manta M8P and CB1, what screen are you planning to use. I have been reading a lot and the TFT35 SPI says it is supposed to work but a lot of comments say it does not. Thought about the BTT HDMI5 but not sure i care to have that much screen?
Thoughts?
Good luck. I wish I had left a little more room for cable runs. My plan is to try to cable lace everything instead.
As a retired Navy guy, I totally appreciate cable lacing!
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Making some progress. Using a section of flexible Cat6 cable to make the CAN cable from the hotend. Super wierd having only 4 wires to handle all of the hotend requirements!
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I might have to look into the canbus thing for a future upgrade.
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Neat idea. Stranded wire? Pumping 40W+ through and splitting (parallel) the current across multiple wire pairs?
Yes. 2 sets of pairs for the power and one set for data. I expect I could separate the last pair across the power side but was worried about space in the pins and connecter. Stranded wire for flexibility.
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So… the Micro Molex connector on the EBB36 is a serious pain in in the rear.
Two things for those that are looking at using them.
- Make sure you know EXACTLY what the pinout is. Once you put the pin in the connector it takes a special pin removal tool to get them out.
- Strip back enough so that the connector does not have any torqu on it. The wires will pull right out of the pins and see point 1.
New connectors are on Amazon. They will be here today.
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Getting the wiring buttoned up. Learned a few more things about the Manta M8P:
- You have to jumper in power to the Bed Power terminals for it to output anything on the the Bed out terminals
- Dont forget the jumpers to select where the drivers get power from.
Still trying to figure out the CAN BUS thing. I have it all wired up but the EBB36 does not show up as a CAN MCU. It has been flashed with CanBoot but I need to be able to see it to put Klipper on it. I THINK it has to do with the 120ohm termination. There are what look like jumper pin and I am not sure (and can not find any reference) as to whether I just need a jumper there or if I need to wire 120ohm resistors into those terminals.
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