Here’s the print:
I have other parts that I’ve been designing as I build my machine. I’ll get them all posted at some point.
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All the cool kids are on printables now! 
No one has ever confused me of being cool. Not when I keep hanging out with people like ya’ll.
@niget2002 Can you tell me what the height of the back extrusion is? I only have M10 push connects so I want to remix/redraw to allow them.
I made my mount 20mm tallx 25mm wide. It’s 10mm from the extrusion to just in front of the back belt and just shy of 20mm to the front belt. I made my tube 40 mm long to clear the bottom of the belts, but I could have made it shorter with the small push connectors.
The back belt is below the rear extrusion, so you can come straight out without hitting it.
Was planning to use Mean Well LRS-350-24, but it’s too wide for where I want to use. So, trying out a slimmer HLG-240H-24 I happen to have, bought used/cheaper from amzn some time back. Heater Bed will be mains powered, and hotend only uses ~40W, so even this 240W supply is overkill.
Am no electrician, so would appreciate any feedback from folks on why this would be a bad idea?
PSU Options
- Mean Well HLG-240H-24
- Spec https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/HLG-240H/HLG-240H-SPEC.PDF
- Temp -40c to 90c
- Mean Well LRS-350-24
- Spec LRS-350-MEAN WELL Switching Power Supply Manufacturer
- Temp -25c to 70c
Wiring
Wires to plan/consider:
- Mains Power Cord
- Power Adapter Mains Input
- Power Adapter 24V Output
- 5x Steppers
- 2x End Stops
- Bed Heat
- Power + Can Bus, or an umbilical of wires for HotEnd/Extruder/BL-Touch/Sensors, Fans
- Camera
- Gratuitous LEDs
- Chamber Fan
- Chamber Heat
Anything else?
Thoughts on using Cork to insulate your printer bed, adhere using hi temp rtv gasket sealant/maker, or recommend something else? Also considering mineral wool left overs encapsulating sides with kapton tape to reduce airborne fibers.
Currently waiting to sealant to help reduce risk of main bed pealing away, details at MP3DP v4 - Aza's build - #126 by azab2c
i used 1/2" styrofoam to insulate my heated bed, and it works great. Heats faster and has a lower duty cycle on time. I milled it using the CNC, and it has an indentation for the thermal probe and heater wires.
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That’s the exact one I’m running on mine. When I opened your link it said previously purchased lol
Where do you think I got it from? I think you linked it somewhere else on here 
Agree, that’s a pretty time/cost effective solution. But then the part of me with no regard to time keeps thinking about milling cork to make Alu bed inlayed within cork border. Partly to capture boundary heat and reduce Alu flex. But would be mostly doing this to flex CNC benefits
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I’ve not bothered insulating the bottom. A couple of the guys have fans on the bottom of our printer blowing up against the heater. Makes for a pretty good enclosure heater.
Anyone found/using gas/damper Struts they like that are right sized for a Printer/CNC lid? Preferably from somewhere with next day delivery
McMaster?
Hopefully one of these will arrive and fit…
My inspiration…
My back of the napkin sketch estimates… (warning: diagram isn’t meant to make sense to anyone but me)
2023-07-26 Edit: All of the gas struts were way to strong. Currently trying 20N 4.4lb gas strut. Gas damper would probably be better, but haven’t stumbled onto cheap but good enough one yet.
Down to the wire mods…Me too!
Yeah, was looking at other OpenSauce projects and realized I have way less RGB LEDs than the average project. Trying to fix that too… My goal is to captivate and entertain attendees’ eyeballs/minds that have been desensitized by years of watching YouTube content
Hopefully it won’t just fit but also be “just right” gas pressure- don’t want the printer popping open mid-print like an angry pac-man…