Sheet metal enclosure box would be ideal, but I figure an extrusion one will be easier to assemble/tweak/mod…
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Planning Power switch at the back of the electronics enclosure, somehow.
Bottom panel is temporary, it’s actually the back panel. Cutting bottom panel now that enclosure dimensions are known.
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I am routing my on/off switch to the front panel. I don’t like having to reach around machines to turn them on.
Honestly, I usually have my 3d printer on a smart switch and use that to turn it on remotely, so I may never use the physical switch. I might need to rethink this.
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Interesting, could add front switch as well, probably soon… One benefit of putting the switch behind the electronics enclosure is that my arm/hand will dampen the fall of the hot bed.
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Belts not fitting easily, because I used wrong print orientation for Z Belt Holder. I should have read Repeat v2 topic more thoroughly, e.g.
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Anyone already running Marlin on Octopus, within their MP3DP v4 ? Will try out Klipper, but not this week.
Found snapshot of V1E MP3DP v4 flavor of Marlin 2.1.1 515 source code. Downloaded/copied from Marlin Firmware - V1 Engineering Documentation
That firmware and source code Snapshot in initial commit was compiled for SKR Pro 1.2. Planning to submit edits in this repo to build on Octopus v1.1. Will diff and integrate V1E 515 Marlin edits to support Octopus used within my LR3.
Cheers!
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Stick with that release of the firmware for all your edits, right now the nighties are all messed up with bed leveling right now, for the past month or two. The Marlin team almost has it fixed.
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Anyone using relief cuts in their bottom panel? Accident sparked an idea… Thoughts?
Using LRS-50-5 instead of LRS-25-5 if I can make it fit.
Internal panels secured. Currently test fitting external panels, will peel and fasten properly at RMRRF
For your sanity’s sake, consider a micro rachet wrench…
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Build plate parts, design, assembly
To attach Alu plate to bed support plate, am using the leveling bolts, springs and adjustment wheels that Ryan kindly sent me.
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Good to spend some time at RMRRF looking over your printer build.
You’d have made more progress at the show if I hadn’t talked your ears off for hours.
Thanks again for your time.
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@MakerJim was great meeting you, and other current, and future V1E crew today. Always a pleasure talking to rocket scientists and engineers. Your 3 planet slingshot to visit deep space asteroid on a respectable/unbelievable budget is a fascinating project. I respect anyone who can simulate the universe 
. For me, meeting up and talking to you guys was way more important than progressing my build. Cheers!
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Looking to finish this build and actually get it to print something. Honestly though, am quite happy just looking at it in it’s unfinished tagged state.
Love that the tags left by V1E legends and YouTubers were made by folks that have left a mark on me. They’ve guided me to be able to print, cnc, build and more. e.g printed my first 3D part (a cat toy…) while watching one of Zack Freedman’s streams.
Currently figuring out how to best preserve the sharpie tags from people met at RMRRF. Any suggestions? Clear vinyl maybe? Or, move exterior left panel to be exterior right panel. That way, the tags on the left panel’s exterior will end up in the air gap chamber. Readable when looking from inside the chamber. Reversed from the outside. Thinking about it, this approach will look awesome if I get a bed cam and lighting setup correctly.
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I would use it as an inner panel, but I would have it so that the ink is between the inner and outer panel and is visible from the outside. I’d also put some smoked or white vinyl on the other side of the panel to help make the sharpie stand out. Maybe put some LEDs on the extrusion between the panels to light it up. Put a clear panel on the outside of that wall so that you look through the outer panel to see the names on the inner panel.
This would keep the ink between two panels so you don’t accidentally touch it. It might also help any heat from inside the printer from affecting anything (although it shouldn’t)
I would not try to put any vinyl over the ink itself. Any screw ups and it would lift the ink off the panel.
A quick google shows that acrylic paint should stick to acrylic sheet. You could try spraying some clear gloss acrylic over the sharpie to protect it. I’d recommend trying this on some scrap first.
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It wouldn’t have to be on either side of the 2020 either. You could just put two sheets together, touching.
It won’t be pristine forever. You just need to protect it against the worst offenses. Then get another one signed next year 
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Bear with me, it’s going to be a bumpy ride…
Get another clear acrylic panel. Coat it in photosensitive masking material. Use the signed sheet as a mask (signatures against the masking material), and expose the masking material to UV light. clean up your mask, which should be mostly masking, but negative space for the signatures. A quick hit with something to etch the acrylic, and you have some permanent signatures! If you want them more visible, it should be easy to fill the etched signatures with color (maybe even differentiate different signatures with different colors).
Or just take pictures with a known object for scale, and toss the panel on your LR or MPCNC to carve out the signatures.
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since you have inside and outside panels what about trimming it down to fit in the slots in the 2020. then put the other panels on each side.
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That didn’t take long 
I kid. I kid.
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Cheers for all the ideas, so many options… Will do a quick panel swap for now so the tags are protected and inside the enclosed space. Would like to eventually work towards a combination of several ideas mentioned… First though, am going to focus on progressing wiring up…
Along those lines, am currently adding more chunks and holes to the Z post (for drag chain mount), because obviously the Z post doesn’t have enough holes already… Feels like I’m desecrating the O.G. Z post, but am needing to mount the drag chain somehow for Z steppers and Heat Bed wiring.
Sharing incase someone’s solve this already, or looking for something similar. Note my build has parts mounted 20mm higher than a stock build. Reason is my build has ~80mm high controller/power underneath the build plate area, still not 100% sure if it’ll work. So, for my build the drag chain will fit folded over underneath the Z post. Will share details/pics when done…
2023-4-30 Edit: Didn’t like how the drag chain looked, and occupied so much space behind the controller box. Came up with alternative drag chain mounting, details below…
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I don’t remember who suggested it but the one I brought to the show has all three steppers and the bed wiring tied in to the bed and then down. I think a single drag chain off the bed plate would be the cleanest, or maybe two to separate mains from the steppers.
Open to interpretation, though.
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I’m hurt. 