That is an M3x8, that is why it says “8” right there. The rest are tens.
Oh those are my fancy Pulleys. They work great on the LR, sorry I should have paid more attention. The grub screws are much nicer. But they are longer. you can just file them down a bit.
LOL, I completely missed the “8” swirls on my print. My dumb luck/mistake, I must have used wrong print orientation, the “8” ended up on initial layer and wasn’t embossed enough for me to notice.
Ended up grinding down stubborn grub screws. Grinded after failing to unscrew, my Allen/hex key deformed before being able to overcome medium strength threadlocker, friction fit and the mightily strong grub screws.
Edit: For Left Front Stepper Mount pulley, even with just one grub screw fastened, I still needed to grind down the sole grub screw so pulley could rotate freely. That was faster for me than trying to modify and reprint Left Front Stepper Mount to have wider pulley hole. Won’t be able to tighten/remove/adjust grub screw now, will need to cut pulley if/when adjustments needed.
Built Frame for 250x250, but 12"x12" plate might physically fit. Hotend won’t be able to fully reach entire bed. I still need to confirm wiring will still fit if plate oversized for the frame is used.
The excess Alu bed will have unnecessary unused bed area increasing weight, and sink heat from usable area that actually needs heat.
Even so, for the sake of getting end to end functionality working, will live with the excess weight/heatloss for now since it’ll avoid me having to cut Alu bed smaller in the short term.
Bed Support Plate — Decide, Cut, Seal/Paint and Assemble
Thinking :
MDF is recommended, but am using Ply left over from a Panel Cut I messed up (wrong dimension).
Modified my build’s Support Plate to be mostly square and oversized to help support/encapsulate insulation filled below Alu Bed. This could cause a fit and/or wire snagging issue, will find out in time…
Holes for zip ties to run wiring to back of printer.
Intentionally symmetrical, still hopeful that hot-end can be too, or at least close.
Maximizing plate size, incase Core XY gets XL’d and big headed later on (like Prusa XL).
Was tempted to reduce overall wiring length required by dropping through center of Bed Support Plate, with controller underneath the printer. Would need to figure out wiring protection, strain relief, maybe the zip ties would be enough? Decided to drop wiring out back of the plate. Hopefully route wiring within a drag chain…
Note holes for bed are missing. Reason is I don’t know where it’s going, waiting until hotend is assembled and I have better idea of usable XY that nozzle can reach.
Decided to ensure am not ready til the last minute, by not scavenging my dual screen LR3 case as-is. My LR3 case would fit, but it’s too chonky, doesn’t look good. Going to burn time modding this mod and attempt to make something slimmer, will shove Octopus and everything else further back under the bed area into the extrusion/sheet-metal portion of the case.
Spool won’t fit in the back right corner as built for 250 Usable X, adding an extra 25mm would have worked. One option, without rebuilding would be to cut an opening into the interior panel. Leaving as-is for now, focused on getting wiring working…
I am routing my on/off switch to the front panel. I don’t like having to reach around machines to turn them on.
Honestly, I usually have my 3d printer on a smart switch and use that to turn it on remotely, so I may never use the physical switch. I might need to rethink this.
Interesting, could add front switch as well, probably soon… One benefit of putting the switch behind the electronics enclosure is that my arm/hand will dampen the fall of the hot bed.
That firmware and source code Snapshot in initial commit was compiled for SKR Pro 1.2. Planning to submit edits in this repo to build on Octopus v1.1. Will diff and integrate V1E 515 Marlin edits to support Octopus used within my LR3.
Stick with that release of the firmware for all your edits, right now the nighties are all messed up with bed leveling right now, for the past month or two. The Marlin team almost has it fixed.