Hey everyone,
I could not pass the opportunity to build another amazing Machine Designed by @vicious1 V1 Engineering and Beta test it, if you will.
Took me a little while to free up some time from work to be able to start on this, almost 3 weeks to be exact.
Finally, this past week I had some time off and nothing work related to print on my 3D Printer.
As usual I did not take enough pictures of the printed parts or the Lowrider cutting the wood frame, but I’m trying to be better at it and the wife is helping…
I Placed an order for all the parts that I “thought” I needed from V1 shop. The parts arrived and I had some of the 3D printed parts on hand. I notice I made a mistake and sure enough Ryan came to the rescue one more time… Thank you again Ryan.
So… here are some pictures from last weekend to today…
You can see the marks on the bed from all the other “Repeat” parts that I did not (forgot ) to take pictures.
Even though I have the PEI Magnetic Spring sheet, when printing with CF Polycarbonate or any other high “Bed” temperate filament, If you don’t use glue stick, and you try to take the part of the bed, it will peel of the PEI coating right out……, as you can see on the next picture, The material will stick to the bed way too much…and it was too late…
MPCNC Primo, laser cutting the bed support on a 1/4" birch plywood, Neje 15W (80W) laser 2 passes at 90% at 6mm/s, got the new laser about 2 months ago… before that I had a Neje 6.5ish (40W)
I have not installed the air assist yet (has only been over year) as I’m using the shop vac connected to an exhaust duct… and you can clearly see the run out of the burn/smoke every cut.
And I know I did not pay attention to the order of the cut… my bad…
I hope I will have some motor movement by the end of the weekend and any building “kinks” out of the way then take the printer apart, paint the wood frame, reassemble the printer, work on the cooling fan and BlTouch mount for the volcano hotend, install the power supply, SKR board and Pi under the wedge, cut a “Front panel” out of acrylic and mount the lcd enclosure in an angle outside of the front panel.
I do need to order some M5x30mm for the final build, I use what I had on had M5x35mm, it does work but does not look good …
I forgot so mention…
On the New Printer Time Thread I said The rails where 450mm… they are not… they are 400mm. Printer frame size is W_514mm ish x L_540MM x H_600mm I’m still using the CR10S Pro bed I had seating around, in theory I can achieve a print size of 300mmx310mmx340mm
You are making quick work of it all. It is scaled up in a way to where it looks just like my 200x200x200, weird. Since you have built so many of my machines, I am interested if you notice any patterns. Easier or harder, more complicated or less, do you like the small unique or are you seeing the downsides of that?
You and Dan are building this and have not asked for any help, that seems like a good thing to me.
I see some familiar looking pieces there, but obviously modified.
I noticed that in the placement of the front motor mounts. I also see the tab and slots for the wedge plate, which I haven’t installed. Fortunately, I can attest to having 66mm of extra movement in Y for the CR10 build plate, so cutting 50mm off is no problem. (I’d probably do it anyway if I build another one.)
I’m guessing you’ll need a little re-mix of the fan shroud in order to accommodate that Volcano heat block.
Sorry on the delay replaying, It’s been a rough weekend. I hate when work gets in the way.
Honestly speaking, from the first machine I built to this one it is getting easier and easier, lower amount of unique parts, screw sizes, “ Standard parts“ easy to source it out if you wanted to.
It has no downsize In been unique and with less parts. I think that’s awesome.
And I have a feeling that I do understand how do you think now, how are you Design and because of that is why I didn’t need to ask for help. Your designs are Pretty intuitive when comes to assembling.
And I do agree with Dan, on his reply on his building thread, he is spot on on everything.
Thank you!! Yes I took your idea on the slots for the bed.
I think for the fan I will take Ryan’s idea and try to mount it sideways.
Now I’m not sure if I’m looking on the right places, but seems like 0.5mm nozzle is not available for the volcano hot end. 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 etc is essay to find.
Once the printer is running I will work on new fan shroud, With the Vulcano Hot end I think is egnoth space to mount the Fan horizontaly unter the extruder, If that doesn’t work, at least I will change the orientation of the fan, getting the fan intake facing the front of the printer and not the Hemera. But that will be done later.
Also I had the time to wire the printer and get it moving.
After swaping couple Z end-stop cables the bed start “dancing”
Now I need to figure out why the BL Touch is not sensing the bed.
It does deploy but once it touch the bed it retract and blink red, like it is giving an error and the Z motors just keep going.
I’m sure is something I’m missing.
I like the way it is going, a little slow though but I like it. Once the BL Touch issue is resolved, I will work on the front panel, witch will be a modified verson of Dan’s @SupraGuy front panel and a modified version Rian’s @vicious1 TTF case to be mounted in an angle at the left lower corner
Yes I know, and as far as I can tell it is correct, I even look at the antclabs website, the thing is if I do Self-Test "Configuration/BLTouch/Self-Test. it deploys and retract 10 times… I also send a M280 P0 S120 and it does the same.
I even detached the fan shroud and the extantion cables from the BLTouch and connect direct to the board.
It is something I’m missing.
The black/white 2 pin wire goes to the endstop. From the deploy test, the 3 wire connector is correct, or else it would fail the self test.
The black/white wire, black goes to the center (-) pin, and white goes to the right hand side (S) pin. (If the board is with the motor connections on the left.)
In that case, it should work correctly, at least that’s how mine is.
I’d also considered making a clip to house the TFT35E3 in Ryan’s case at the front of the printer, but decided against it. An angle would be nice, but it just didn’t seem necessary, and I didn’t have the wifi slot ready at the time yet.
I think that I posted the updated CAD for the front in my build thread. Don’t use the first one, the fan shroud hits the top during homing. (Didn’t know that until I made the fan shroud, which was the very last piece that I printed.) I know you’re remixing anyway, since your Z is longer than mine.
Actually, since your Y rails are shorter, and you appear not to have shortened the depth, the first one might actually be better for you.
I will say one thing that I’ve noticed. Don’t leave the X/Y homed while you’re cooling down. The Hemere fan ends up right next to the motor mount, with little room for airflow past it. My job end Gcode sequence now looks like this:
G28 ; Home all axes
G0 X-3 ; Give the hotend fan some space
M84 ; Turn off motors
M104 S0 ; Turn off hotend
M140 S0 ; Turn off heat bed
Thank you!! That is very helpful info!
Would you mind taking a picture of your wiring? The blToutch is driving nuts.
This is not my first rodeo, but still… this is the first time I’m having a problem with the BLTouch…
Here is a picture Not a good one) of the bltouch wiring. I’m pinching the 2 wires together. Black and white goes to the End Stop connector (Z- (PG8- GND)) and the 3 wires (Brown, red and orange) going to the BLtouch/servo connector…
Here is my best guess I can double check on my build in about an hour. The printer has homed it knows it is at least 200 mm away and has a 10mm safe zone. That probe will not work until it is within 10mm or so. The Z align is pretty fancy and a few things have to be set one of them is max angle so I am sure that comes into play as well. Try it real near the hot end. I use a g0 Z200 (my Z is 220), then the G34.
Mine looks like yours, except that I re-terminated the endstop wiring into a 3 pin JST connector
I did redefine my home position to roughly what my Z endstops are, though of course it varies a little. Now that I have a solid 1/2" foam piece under the heated bed, it should vary less than when it was just springs, and I think it’s 3-5mm off the real distance, but it’s close enough.
I replaced all the endstop cable, the cable has JST connectors on both ends. I got then awile back as a set sensor and cable, when I was building the GridBot end endup been a different sensor, so I ordered the new one and never bother using those cables. Here is a link to the sensors I had.
I also did change the redifine the home position to about 5mm from real distance, I will tone that once the machine is fully up and running.
Now I did some progress today, (I was so tired yesterday that I got home and went strait to bed) I re-upload the firmware, just like before. And it mostly fix the problem.
Now the BLTouch deploy and retract when sense the bed but give me an error Probe Failed.
Thank you, but that is just a Neje 15W laser, nothing special.
One thing though for the plywood I do the 1st pass and I drop The Z axis 2.5 mm and that does it. The MDF on the other hand, took 3 Passes at 95% and 4mm/s droping the Z axis 1.5mm after each pass.
