In the meantime, even though I didn’t get to actually work on the printer itself, I did spend a good bit of time in the CAD planning it all out…
Here’s some CAD glamour shots 
1 Like
I had quite a bit of upfront planning involved to get the back all laid out… this is what my DXF for the back panel looks like in order to keep everything aligned as intended
2 Likes
I also made a video testing what it’s like when the bed drops when shorting all 6 coils.
This is not wired up correctly, I just have them shorted directly in the plugs.
I kept hearing about how much quieter using 6 relays over 3 was, so I wanted to see what it was like…
It is definitely super slow and super quiet
4 Likes
This is the way!
I like this layout and am going to shamelessly do something similar.
1 Like
I do also have a plan for enclosing and protecting the back electronics panel…
But it’s not finalized yet.
As soon as this thing starts moving plastic, I’ll start drawing it up
2 Likes
Dang. That’s some impressive layout work. I may redo part of my v4 if I ever get around to putting klipper on it.
2 Likes
Got it printing and serialized
I did a little bit of tuning this morning with the printer to get the belts in usable shape before I attempted to print with it.
Here’s my belt and input shaper results:
Still got a lot of tuning to do, and still need to finish up my back wiring panel.
So current status: Working, but not done
2 Likes
Congratulations!!!
1 Like
Pretty stunning graphs, better than mine!
Yeah… 
LMAO
1 Like
Fair warning to anyone building any printer…Make sure to do Extruder calibration first.
I started a calibration cube print yesterday to just get my first print done. I’m using the Biqu H2 V2S Lite extruder and had it configured in Klipper according to their specs.
Well, with it configured to the recommended specs, it was extruding 2x as much as it should have.
So much over-extrusion my nozzle was dragging through and sounded like it was about to rip it off.
My rotation distance ended up being 6.9 for it to extrude properly.
1 Like
“Trust but verify”
yeah…
I’ve never done an “Extrude 100mm” test and had it be more than 5-10mm off before.
This one extruded ~200mm
When that’s happened to me, usually it was some kind of off-by-2 problem with microstepping or similar.
How is the Klipper ‘rotation distance’ defined and used by Klipper?
So…the strange thing is…
I actually copied and pasted my extruder config directly from @Jonathjon Klipper config, since he is using the same extruder.
like this:
[extruder]
....
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 3.43
.....
His was fine… mine was not
1 Like
Here’s what seems to be working for my Biqu V2 H2S Revo…
Followed Rotation distance - Klipper documentation during initial setup a while ago, but already forgotten details.
Looked at description for Mike’s Biqu … Lite, from BIQU H2 V2S Lite Extruder 3d printing parts for Ender 3 Voron V0 Voron2.4 BIQU 3d printers – Biqu Equipment
Double checked slicer settings for extruder flow and/or nozzle width and/or wall width?
There is a version of the H2Revo that comes with a high volume nozzle. Check the volumetric flow rate on your slicer I’m not 100% sure, but I think it was around 16mm3/s for that nozzle.
The lite doesn’t use a revo nozzle and flows a good bit more than that
duh - I should wear my glasses when reading this stuff…