I started a V5 Build and so far so good. Physically, it is almost done. I just need to finish the bed. I am waiting for my aluminum bed plate to come in so I temporarily made a stainless bed plate with some scrap metal I had laying around.
I am about to enter the electronics and wiring stage now. I want to reuse a Hemera 12V that I have from a previous build, but I feel inclined to go 24V on this build. Should I just go 24V and get the BIQU H2 V2S?
Also, I have never done 110V mains power heated beds before. How are you all handling the 110V wiring for this? I have always used the below rocker switch and routed that into a switching power supply. But if I go that route again, wouldn’t I need to split this off to power the switching power supply and also go to the SSR? Should I use terminal rails for Hot, GND, and Neutral so I can split them off?
After wiring everything up. To help reduce risk of electrocution, I blobbed silicone onto any Mains voltage terminals. Everything’s grounded, and tested shorting ground trips the breaker before burning down my home.
Gotcha! Simple enough. So I really only need the 413 Wago because I only need 3 slots (Supply from wall outlet, out to 24V power supply, out to SSR for heated bed). Correct? Nothing else should need main power.
Use the simple 24v if it supplies enough current. If you have an ssr and a 120v bed heater than you just need .8 amps x 5 motors plus board current and hot end heater. I heat with 24v bed heater because it is less expensive, but requires a larger wattage switching power supply to drive the heaters. 15 amps isnt enough to go over 75 deg on the bed…
Not sure the h2v2s is a better option than the hemera. The orbiter3 was of interest for a while.
If you are using din rail, you can jumper your mains there and run to the ssr and then the heater. I use something like this.
Had this in draft mode since yesterday… All the other options will work as well.
I use a 24 to 5 v converter as well. The raspberry pi wants 5.1v though so be aware it will kick off brownout warnings if it isnt happy.
So what I am gathering is that from mains power, neutral goes directly to the bed, live wire goes to SSR then to the bed, and then the ground needs to break off multiple directions and ground all metal parts (bed plate, aluminum extrusion, etc).
Ideally, yes. It is challenging to get a good ground connection to aluminum extrusion.
The critical part is the heated bed itself needs to be properly grounded. If hot or neutral short to it then it will blow a fuse or breaker immediately.
Are you planning to use a Thermal Fuse in the bed?
Personally learnt how to assemble and wire my Mains based heater bed, including a Thermal Fuse, from Canuck Creator’s nicely edited video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZx4vfevwx4.
Thanks! I haven’t used my MPCNC in so long and didn’t feel like dealing with the mess of cutting aluminum on it. Luckily, I have a waterjet at work that I manage so I just threw this into production.
I went crazy on my V4 build and used DIN rails for everything. I used the Dinkle power distribution jacks. I have breakers in line with the heated AC bed so that if something shorts, it’ll trip the breaker.
Everything is mounted in the back of the printer in an electronics box that is an extension of the main printer frame rails.
This makes it look messy, but it’s because all my wires are still long and I was testing out. I have plans to replace the Pi and controller with a klipper setup and plan on cleaning up the wiring then.
