i.e., “Dogbone or get boned”
That is the easiest way. I had some Carbon Fiber tubes, or arrow shafts laying around that I used before, then ended up buying more the other printers. If you look at my printer/s I have a small CF shaft across the top, If your wood is nice and straight, no worries, but I had some bends so I think it was worth it.
On the next one I might try a small face frame just to ensure a really cubic build.
While assembling, make sure to get things as square and even as possible, measure everything and the diagonals a bunch. The accuracy I am getting is pretty awesome, but it all starts with the frame. Extrusions can be easily adjusted (and lose it easier), flat frames take a bit of forethought but hold it later.
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What voltage are you all running? 12V or 24V?
BTW, this is the best version of this word i’ve ever seen.
All my stuff is 12v. Pre-owned
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All my printers run 24V PSU, including the repeat.
12V is a little easier for some peripherals like fans, but there are way more and better options for things like bed heaters at 24V, which I believe offsets such things. Certainly 12V is sufficient for good quality though.
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If I had it to do again, I would probably go 24V.
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@MattMed I am probably missing something but where or how did you get the cut files for the panels and holes?
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IMHO, it is not needed, but it is not worth the debate. 24V PSUs are pretty close to the same price. A 24V heater is going to use less current for the same wattage. That’s probably the biggest advantage.
If I am trying to use my parts bin full of 12V stuff, then I don’t think it is worth the switch. If I am buying everything new, I would go 24V. It is too bad it isn’t more interchangeable.
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You need to download Fusion 360 if you have not already. Then using the link that Ryan provided in his original post you will be able to access the model.
From there you will download the fusion file from the link and open it in Fusion 360 in order to view and unhide wood panels. From there you will be able to access the sketches/dxfs for the panels.
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Wow!!, thanks not really sure how I missed that. Thank you very much.
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Slight confusion in the Fusion file. The Y linear rails parts are labeled as 275mm rails and when measuring them they check out to be 275mm long. The Z linear rails are labeled 200mm rails and without thinking twice I got 200mm rails. However, these rails are also 275mm upon measuring. I should have measured them in the file just to double check. But I wanted to let others know before making the same mistake.
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Process is slow going at the moment. SKR Pro, steppers, drivers, LCD, Hemera have all arrived. Still waiting on the CF tube. I don’t think I will see that until early Feb. Heated bed should be here this weekend. That should be about it.
Next steps are:
- Get all the wiring together/ordered
- Redesign the bed plate to mount a four-holed heated bed to
- Paint the panels so I can start installing everything
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https://www.prusaprinters.org/social/47417-ryan-z/collections/93852
Don’t forget to like and subscribe, and share with your friends…too much youtube lately.
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Here is my take at a modified bed plate. The bed I ordered has mounting holes on a 210mm square so thats what I went by. Should be able to cut it out this weekend and test fit it.
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lol. Done, posted a build pic of the Repeat, too.
Unsurprisingly, looks a lot like mine.
I did find that with mine, I can get the BLTouch probe to about 6mm from the back edge, but closer than that, and it can result in some interesting noises… Of course I have those 450mm Y rails, and with the 310mm square build plate, I get about 66mm of extra space in the front where the nozzle completely misses the bed. I was planning to add a nozzle wiper there, but haven’t done it yet.
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I was thinking something like this for a 300ish build area:
The mount pattern includes 240mm & 209mm 4-point & 3-point holes.
It is offset from the centerline because with the Hemera, the nozzle is offset.
I was going to leave the platform squarish and bigger than the build area to allow for different tools which may have different offsets.
I don’t want it to be too heavy for the direct drive z belts, but it won’t be moving fast. I figure I could start adding lightening holes if need be.
On the Hemera mount, the BLTouch is about 36mm in front of the extruder nozzle. There is not much that can be done about that other than adding another 50mm to the Y-rails so it can reach the back edge. I figure extrapolating out 10% ought to be okay - especially if it is close to level.
You are definitely motivating me!
I’ve got my printed parts made and 1/2" birch plywood in hand. I guess it is time to place an order for the electronics, belts/pulleys and rails and start making chips.
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I really enjoy painting when I don’t have to do any of the steps! Looks great.
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