Set up on temporary floor table so I can use it to cut the torsion box core for itself
Some more wiring and belts to go and then on to calibration and cutting
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Those plates look thick, is that 1/2 inch aluminum?
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10mm
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Moving under its own power and homing 
Now I just need to square it and print a brush for the dust shoe and I can start cutting it’s torsion box
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That is interesting, I really like that. What are you using for the wire tube/hose?
P.S. Make sure those two hoses are attached to the top of your core in some fashion, that will really help keep super accurate Z position.
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I see Ryan asked the question i have as well. Is that plastic corrugated conduit used in homes for low voltage network cables? Good idea. It looks rigid enough to support its own weight.
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Some is, some isn’t. It depends on wall thickness. Some is hard as a rock and quite rigid, others are soft and limp as wet noodles.
I used a lot of that stuff at work (fibre optic installations). Wider diameters tend to be stiffer.
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It’s this product specifically https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-20mm-x-10m-medium-duty-corrugated-conduit-20mm_p4330837
I used it in place of cable chain on my other cnc design because I was being cheap 
It is rigid fastened with some cable ties at the core, essentially to the vacuum hose which is fairly solidly in place.
I’ve been trying to think of a good spot to put a strain relief mod at the top attached to the core. Hopefully that’s good enough as is but if not so far the best idea I have is to design a piece that mounts off the same bolt as dust shoe that acts as strain relief and a guide for both pipes.
I split it down the centre with a Stanley knife, however it’s still super stiff - getting cables in and out via the split is really hard, it’s easier to just pull them through.
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I think it’s the 25mm version of the product linked fyi.
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Is Bunnings geoblocked? Can someone not from Aus let us know if you can open the link in the post above. - I seem to recall having troubles accessing their site from other parts of the world.
Worked fine for me. It did check to make sure I’m human the first time.
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Is this a live broadcast? 
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Omg accidentally deleted my own post
Was basically saying I am pretty sure I know the root cause of the issues.
Combination of things. UART isn’t working for the tmc 2209’s - will need to troubleshoot that.
So I basically eyeballed driver current using the potentiometers on the 2209’s (based on heat sink temps, very scientific….)cause my multimeter wasn’t accessible. I’ll tune them with the multimeter tonight to get that set appropriately.
The motors I’m using on z and x are ldo-42sth482004mah which have a holding torque of 40Ncm. I’m going to swap out the X motor for an OMC 2004s1 which is more like 60Ncm immediately, possibly z down the line(or I might switch to a 2mm or 4mm lead leadscrew to double or quadruple available torque.
Also it was 36c and 45% humidity in my shop.
Between the underpowered x motor, the poorly set currents and the heat I’m pretty sure the stepper drivers overheated and it looks like it just gave up on X.
All of that is fixable
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I thought you had to solder a bridge to make them use uart vs the potentiometer. If the potentiometer works, then they are soldered wrong. That was at least the case with the 2130s. I haven’t ever used 2209s in standalone mode.
Oh come on, it was only 37 yesterday - probably no more than 45 in your shed! 
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I suspect the soldering is wrong
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