After trammed my LR4 I Found that at Xmin side was good, but at Xmax was still lil’ off. This is due to a gantry twist around the X axis.
So I figured out a solution for this problem, without getting crazy:
Two custom Braces at the ends, with slotted holes and a perpendicular screw to set the position.
Sorry for the low quality pic, but it gives an idea of what I mean.
With the machine assembled you can simply loose the two slotted screws and use the M3 to set the right angle, than snug again. The weight of the spindle will rotate the gantry forward, letting the M3 screw work as intended.
In my sketch the slotted holes gives a 5° angle rotation, but it’s probably more than what needed.
Probably modify this thing for @vicious1 is easier than for me create a new brace.
The problem is visible only when flattening the spoilboard with a 1” bit, but all the part are assembled with screws, and holes in 3d printed parts, the gantry is 1420mm, and the core tightening systems tend to rotate it a lil’. Even heavy duty metal routers needs gantry tramming.
Are you sure it’s the gantry? On LR3s it was sometimes necessary to adjust the angle of the router - usually a bit of tape to pack out the top mount was enough - there was a remixed eccentric mount too.
The adjustment should be very small 1-3 layers of blue tape is all It should take.
The more odd part that I am hearing is one side is off and the other is not. I would take a closer look at why that is. They are the same. Should be an easy fix to straighten it out.
You can move faster and remove just as much material with a more reasonable sized bit for this machine. 1/2" seems to be super legit and does not need to be trammed as perfect. You can remove a lot of material with one of these guys.
Happy New Year… I’m searching the forums to find any video links for tramming the LR4 and/or resurfacing/flattening the spoil board. (what 1/2" bit and procedure do you reccomend?) I have one night off, tonight, from set building and I was hoping to use this rarely found open time to tram the gantry and level the spoil board. The LR4 is so fast cutting XPS foam that i want to design more pieces with islands, pockets, and engravings so The more accurate I can get the bed, the better.
Use @jamiek 's G-Code Generator. It does all of the cutting on a single direction (you choose which direction), so it produces a much cleaner finished product (cutting in different directions can cause the bit to deflect differently, resulting in grooves)
